#wild camping
What I love are slow mornings, waking up to the sunlight stroking my face, climbing out of bed to make coffee and cracking open the door to appreciate the morning view. A little walk or a dip to refresh my body and mind, and a moment of contemplation before we consult our maps to plan the day’s route ahead.
What I don’t love is being woken up at 7am by someone insistently honking their horn outside our van, stumbling groggily out of bed to be greeted by a police badge.
They ask us where we’re from, what we’re doing here, and we reply that we’re sleeping and is there a problem?
“No problem,” he says, and gets back in his police car and drives away. Well then why the hell wake us up?!
These are the stories of two very different mornings parked in the same camp spot. Setting up camp is a little like flipping a coin; you never know what the result will be, but you can be sure it will make a good story.
Brewing up Turkish coffee in the Welsh mountains on a stormy day- the perfect antidote to a sleepless night.
Perhaps we should’ve expected the inevitably wet British weather on our camping trip to Snowdonia, but not knowing what to expect was all part of the fun. We’d spent a rather long time trying to find a suitable camp spot that day, eventually settling in a small, untouched patch of pine forest that had not yet been logged unlike its surroundings.
We busied ourselves pitching the tent, lighting a fire and preparing some dinner, and it was only once we had just finished setting up camp that the heavens opened. As our campsite quickly flooded with rain and the fire crackled and hissed, struggling to stay alight, Ben and I frantically began lashing a tarp to the surrounding trees, cutting pieces of cord with an old hunting knife and tying them to whatever branches we could find as rain streamed down our faces and up my sleeves.
You’d think this would’ve been the last straw at the end of a challenging day, but somehow as we sat eating fajitas in the car by the light of the fire that glowed beneath our newly constructed shelter, we caught eachother’s eyes and couldn’t stop giggling. Sure we were wet and cold, our tent was damp and our socks were soaked, but we were having fun nonetheless. We were out here alone, not another human in sight, just battling with the elements and keeping each other company.
The fondest memories we make aren’t always of the best times, and even the best-laid plans often go awry, but we embrace every moment of freedom we can find. Where adventure waits, there lies challenge, and we are prepared to follow.
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I once heard that to enjoy the wild, sometimes you must succumb to boredom, and it’s kind of true. In a contemporary society, so full of distractions replacing actions, boredom can seem like a radical thing.
5 minutes spare? Check your phone. Waiting for the bus? Check your phone. Having a lie in? Can’t sleep? Bored? Check your phone.⠀
Never for one moment in this technologically enhanced culture do we need to suffer boredom when there’s a million things to do at the flick of a screen, yet these things serve no purpose other than to pass time. They have no meaning, they create no lasting memories, challenge or stimulate us. Often we don’t notice the voices in our phone screens, billions of them chiming in at once, how loud they call until we shut them off.⠀
Silence.⠀
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Our nights camping in the valleys of North Wales were a deliberate motion to disconnect ourselves for a few days; without even a lick of signal we were forced to make our own fun.⠀
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Camping in the wilds of Snowdonia with nothing but a tent and a car to hold our supplies forced us to live deliberately, in a way that not even our van enables us to. For the bare minimum of comfort there’s the arduous process of setting up a tent, inflating a mattress, collecting firewood, coaxing a fire into life and preparing a meal on its white hot coals. By the time all this is done, and we’ve spent the best part of an afternoon seeking out a camp spot, there’s little else we want to do than fall into bed beneath the stars and soak in the absolute silence around us.
Without the temptations of TV, or the endless scroll of social media at our fingertips our thoughts can breathe, and by physically distancing ourselves from our problems for a while we can gain a deeper perspective. The picturesque valleys of North Wales, crowded with flocks of sheep and little else, offered us the one thing we’ve been lacking these past months: solitude.
It’s been a while since we last spent any time on social media- life’s just got in the way of many things. We’ve been so busy living, working, building our future that there’s been barely a moment to rest.
Lockdown hasn’t changed much for us, apart from being grounded and unable to travel, but truthfully we’d still be where we are now- saving money, crafting our ideas and dreams into something tangible, laying foundations for the next roadtrip. There will always be a next trip, a crazy idea flitting about the backs of our minds ready to flourish and manifest into reality; it’s not so much ? as ?
The rare moments of the summer when we’re not working on something have been spent here; our local swimming hole. A short walk through the mines and moorlands brings us out into a little slice of evening paradise. An icy but just bearable dip in the water with fish darting around our ankles followed by a jumper-wrapped warm-up by the fire, fingers greasy with oil, eating homegrown vegetables charred on the BBQ.
I guess what I’m conveying here is our lust for a simple life; simple food, simple pleasures, time away from routine, disconnected, and time spent living wildly. It’s truly tonic for the soul.
We’d love to have a little catch up with you all, so maybe drop us a comment and let us know what’s been keeping you busy this summer? ⠀
Another day of life in the wild.⠀
One of our last few days in Bosnia, spent amongst snow and pine, sprucing up before our big journey home-bound. We’d be returning worn out and penniless, with a broken van and a clutch of precious new memories, yet we did not regret a single moment of the last six months.
It’s a taboo subject to talk about money, but we left for this trip with just a few grand between us. For six months of living and travelling over 15,000 miles- that’s not a lot.
And so to anyone who says that we are privileged: you’re wrong. Our lifestyle is not a privilege, it is the product of hard work, ruthless saving and months of rigorous planning. All in the name of following our dreams, all in hope that someday we might be able to make the money to sustain doing what we love. All for that little taste of freedom.
And it was worth every freezing night, every stale loaf of bread, every skipped meal, every dinner scraped together out of leftovers, every push to get to the next fuel station and every questionable road. We have not lived well but boy have we lived.
We’ve driven spectacular roads, spent evenings in the company of welcoming locals, sampled cuisines and cultures from all walks of life, been to unbelievably remote locations and captured it all through the glass of a lens.
See we’re not just doing this for a jolly, to escape the 9-5; we’re doing this because we have a passion and the tenacity to chase our dreams. We sacrificed comfort and security for the promise of something so much bigger.⠀
You don’t have to be rich to travel; we’re proof of that. All you need is a dream, and the desire to chase that dream.⠀
Isolated.
Few places offer such opportunity to seek the wild and the remote such as North Albania.
A swathe of black pine trees, a horizon dominated by the hostile white peaks of the Accursed Mountains, and a winding dirt track meandering toward a wide open plateau just big enough for one van to camp. This is where we spent our nights while our days were spent in nearby Pukë.
Of course, parking in such remote places is usually fraught with a danger we must weigh up and assess before deciding to stay. And with our van playing up in cold weather since driving the perilous SH75 road we knew this was a risk we would take.
Dusk arrived, staining the valleysides purple and tinting the dry grass a beautiful shade of umber. The starlit night was peaceful and undisturbed by another human presence, but by dawn the winds had began to pick up, descending from a mountain whose name we were later told translated to the .
Our sleep interrupted, we cracked our eyes open and lay in bed while the van rocked to and fro until one of us gave in and got up to move it to a sheltered spot. Unfortunately, with the wind blasting straight into the engine, the stubborn old beast refused to start and we were left stranded, watching the hammocks and the lights sway as though in an earthquake.
Thankfully we were rescued, for the first in a number of times that week, by @discover_puka in a Land Rover. With our van running at last we were able to drive into the town to wander round its beautiful square and little tiny shops, and sample some of the local Puka beer made from the surrounding area’s mountain spring water.
Then we returned to our secluded spot amongst the pines to rest for the following day’s adventure, safe in the knowledge that even the most troublesome days in the wild were bound to make a good story one day.
The sunshine on our skin was a feeling we’d long since forgotten, a sensation buried in the backs of our minds. Yet here it was, an unusually warm, dare I say hot day in the hinterlands of rural Albania.
After many months of winter, of snow in Kosovo, freezing fog in Macedonia and countless icy mornings it was a welcome relief and a boost to our morale.
We’d been craving a cool body of water to plunge into and wash away the driving sweat, but we settled for a bag shower on a dirt track nestled amongst the shrubs and canyons with the scent of wild thyme rising hot and citrussy in the air.
I washed our clothes in the sink and hung them out to dry, and we watched the sun climb out of the sky and brush over the mountaintops turning them hazy purple and red. Sunsets could be a thousand shades of gold and orange, pale pink and even the occasional streak of green, but they were always purple here in Albania. The kind of purple that stained the mountain faces and electrified the lake waters; the kind that demanded you stop and watch.
Late at night two men in a van came and dumped ten neat white bags on the ground in front of our van. We assumed they were fly-tippers, but come morning we awoke to the sound of saddles scraping past our van as two men loaded up their mules with the supplies they’d need to take to their village, a sight that always filled us with wonder and curiosity. ? ?
We said good morning to them, folded up the washing and continued on our journey towards a curious little town named Pukë…
Alone in the wild.⠀
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We can never truly be alone, no matter how remote we go in our van. Because if we can drive it, someone else can too.⠀
But still we like to find these hidden crevices, areas of land with no purpose and no reason to visit them. We like to tuck ourselves so far out of the way we might not see another person for days, for reasons we can’t explain.⠀
It’s difficult to put into words, my desire to meet people and hear their stories in every corner of the world we go, and the yearning to conceal ourselves away like some childish game of hide and seek, except no one’s going to come looking.⠀
I can’t explain it, but I find solace in knowing I’m not the only one.⠀
In a particular chapter of a very well-known book Jon Krakauer finds himself climbing to the top of an Alaskan mountain so remote it hasn’t seen a visitor in years, risking his life in the snow, all in the name of solitude. The lengths he would go to to escape humankind, and the loneliness that struck him once he was back amongst them- that story sticks in my mind, always.⠀
Some may find unabounded silence and space unnerving, the knowledge that if something goes wrong you’re stuck out here. But we relish in it, the what if’s outweighed by the bliss of isolation. The possibility that maybe, just maybe, not one person has ever camped in this spot before and we might be the first.⠀
The solitude quells our minds as much as it unnerves them, but still the excitement of adventure keeps us pushing onwards into evermore distant corners of the earth.⠀
P.S. Can anyone name the book?
The first of the real autumn storms, coupled with increasing Covid-19 cases, really began to bite as we spent a night on Colonsay and then sailed on to Islay. Almost nothing at all was open on Colonsay, and restrictions in Scotland meant no alcohol could be served indoors, so our plans to visit the Lagavulin distillery had to be paused.
As if taunting us, we could smell the whisky in the air as we cycled inland from pretty Port Askaig. The whisky lost from the barrels during the ageing process is known as ‘the angels’ share’ – and the sheer quantities of it on Islay must mean the angels get good and drunk.
We cycled across to Port Charlotte and one of M’s favourite pubs of all time, the Port Charlotte Hotel. It rained for two nights and a day without letup, and we hung out anywhere indoors that we could find, including the away team changing room at the community centre (“visiting linesmen will run the line closest to the shore”). A dram in the garden of the Port Ellen Hotel during a brief sunny spell was the closest we got to a grand whisky tour. We’ll just have to come back.
40mph gusts followed us on the ferry back to Kennacraig on the the mainland. Luckily the trees saved us from the worst of it, but we still got cold and wet in some sharp showers on the way to Crinan. The Paps of Jura towered above us as we crawled up the coast, though our reward was spotting three red squirrels in space of a few minutes. One sat on the mossy stone wall near us, clutching an acorn and twitching its little fluffy ears.
Crinan was jammed with yachts with polished wooden decks; one was so huge it had its own motor launch strapped to the back. The harbour was beautiful, with a clutch of whitewashed buildings and a tiny lighthouse. An old boatshed had been converted into a gallery, with horrible oil pastels on sale for £6,000 a pop. We quickly realised that Crinan was a little out of our price range.
We made it back to Oban along the wet logging road just as night fell. It was the first night after the clocks had changed, and darkness at 5pm came as a real shock. We sailed for Mull with the end of a hurricane coming for us, after smashing America to bits: our time on the island was mainly spent trying to keep the tent upright, and then sitting by the fire in the Mishnish pub in Tobermory, drying out socks that had been wet for days. 60mph wind was forecast and we managed to squeeze onto an earlier ferry than planned, narrowly avoiding getting stranded.
The end of the trip came sooner than we had hoped. England was about to go into a second national lockdown, so we needed to get home pronto. Luckily it was far easier than last time, when I almost got stranded in Delhi in March 2020; this time it was a two-day cycle from Glasgow to Edinburgh and then a long, slow train south. As we crossed back over the English border we raised a glass: to a truly memorable adventure in a topsy-turvy year.
Read the first Island Hopping blog: Back in the saddle
As we sailed to Ullapool across a lake-smooth Minch, it became clear that autumn had started without us. The road to Inverness – a stretch of the NC500 packed with camper vans – wound through tall trees that were already golden brown. The strong winds that would have shoved and shaken us on the Hebrides were softened to the rustle of a branch. I have really, really missed trees. We stopped at Corrieshalloch Gorge and walked the wobbly suspension bridge, with the bizarre perspective of seeing a waterfall from directly above. The whole woodland glowed.
In Inverness we visited Leakey’s Bookshop, a crazy emporium where tall bookshelves teetered perilously close to the woodburner. Then we tried a deep-fried Mars bar at the chippie that claimed to have invented them. We ordered and the kid behind the counter said: “Salt and vinegar?” M and I looked at each other – when in Rome, do as the Romans do, I guess? – and then the kid said “oops, I didn’t mean to say that,” and we sighed with relief. Though who knows, maybe it would have been an improvement.
The start of the Great Glen Way to Fort William was a beautiful road, threading through the woods. Loch Ness sparkled grey between the trees. We set up camp on its pebbly shore, and rain began to drum on the tent. It poured all night and much of the next day: driech weather (the only Gaelic word I’ve learned).
We picked up General Wade’s Military Road, the ‘first straight road in the Highlands’, which shot up a ridiculous hill. Modern builders had put a bend in it so the gradient wasn’t quite so severe, but you could see the old road merrily ploughing straight on. We laboured to the top in driving rain and then a voice shouted over the wind: “Would you like tea or coffee?"
Standing in the doorway of a camper van was our saviour, Doug, on holiday with wife Sam and daughter Shona. They brewed us a coffee and said they were on their way to Skye to swim in the Fairy Pools, which sounded extremely cold. We wished each other happy adventuring and zoomed downhill to Fort Augustus to drip-dry in a pub. We tried to time our exit to dodge the next shower but it started up again. "Ahh, if it’s not shite now it’ll be shite later,” the barman said cheerfully.
Towpaths, forest tracks and old railways took us from the foot of Loch Ness, along the shore of Loch Oich, and onto Loch Lochy. Tiny whitewashed lock-keepers’ cottages peppered the canals linking them. We camped under the boughs of an old oak on another section of General Wade’s road, down on the lakeshore. The 18th century road was overgrown by grass and bushes but it was absolutely solid: we couldn’t stick the tent pegs in more than an inch, and had to weigh the tent down with stones. Then came a bizarre noise like the rumble of thunder and a military jet came tearing up the loch, so low we could have repaid the day’s favour and offered coffee to the pilot.
The woodland was dripping wet in the morning and I stuck my foot into my trainer and encountered an enormous black slug curled up in the toe. It was an inauspicious start to a rather miserable day on my part, and I was very grateful to get to Fort William. The weather finally lifted and we were bathed in golden evening sunlight. Ben Nevis rose above with snow right at the top. The soft light faded out and we could hear stags bellowing mournfully to each other in the trees.
The weather app said it was 1C when we woke up, the skies crystal clear. We caught the Corran ferry and then picked up Route 78, the Caledonian Way cycle path, all the way back to Oban. We span along the remains of another old railway line with frost in the verges where the sun hadn’t yet reached, and then a beautiful woodland path. We stopped for a sunny pub garden pint with a view of Castle Stalker, and then returned to Oban’s ferry terminal for the next round of island-hopping.
Read the next Island Hopping blog: Way out West
Really wild camping. Bostagh Beach, Scotland
