#cosplay by mccalls

His and Her court gowns to Labyrinth Masquerade XXII

His

Pattern: Cosplay by McCall’s Victor

Fabric: Silk diopioni, embroidered silk taffeta, silk charmeuse. Lining: Silk charmeuse

Notes:

The quality of the Cosplay by McCall’s line is amazing. I love how it comes in a larger envelope and printed in sturdier paper. The instructions are very clear which make them suitable for beginners. This pattern is rated intermediate and it seems about right. There are piping and angled seams but nothing exceedingly difficult. Keep in mind this is a fully lined robe requiring over 25 yards of fabric so there are a lot of sewing to be done.

Problem Area:

There are minor issues where the gored pieces are joined. Even if the notches are match up exactly, the seams are longer on one side. I measured the pattern piece just to confirm it wasn’t a problem due to fabric drape/thread tension/cutting. It’s not a big deal since you can easily hemmed the extra away.

Possible improvement: The finished robe is heavy and really weight on the fabric. Conisider adding interlining for more structure.

Hers

Pattern: Burda 6398

Fabric: Embroidered silk organza (outer layer), Silk Faille (skirt inner layer), duchess silk (bodice inner layer), silk crepe de chine (lining)

Modifications: Added piping and trims. Added boning to bodice.

Notes:

Burda patterns are a little difficult to follow because the instructions are translated. This is a pattern rated advanced difficulty but it really isn’t as crazy as it sounds. I did have to read the instructions for the skirt side pleats a few times before I finally understand which way they go. I think the gown turned out alright but I am not that happy with the construct. It feels like it is a shortcut pattern that gives you the look of a historical gown but lacks the finer details.

Possible improvement: Could have made this into two pieces with a boned/corset bodice and a separate skirt. Would replace built in skirt netting with actual pannier.