#joe writes things

When it comes to buying cameras and photo equipment, getting started can be extremely intimidating and confusing. There’s so much out there available to purchase, and it can be difficult for someone who’s looking to get their first (or second, or third…) camera to decide on what to do.

However, there’s quite a few tips and tricks to keep your head above water when it comes down to making a decision! Here’s some advice from a photographer currently working in a retail camera store.

• DO YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE BUYING: When it comes to purchasing any major electronic device, research on what you’re buying is critical, and it’s no different for photo equipment. While we’re more than happy at the store to assist you and give you information about the cameras we carry, there may be specifications that we just don’t have the ability to tell you over-the-counter, such as real-world comparison photos or test charts. There are plenty of websites that will be able to assist you in this regard; camera reviews are a dime a dozen, and while you always have to keep an eye on personal bias with these (as with any review of a product!), many of them are extremely comprehensive, with detailed charts and comparison images. DPReviewis perhaps the most detailed and neutral photographic review website; I would recommend starting there when browsing for info on cameras!

• NOT ALL CAMERAS ARE EQUAL, BUT MOST ARESIMILAR:   Camera bodies these days are no longer apples and oranges; instead, they’re more like Granny Smith and Golden when it comes to comparing capabilities. All cameras have the capability to take high-quality stills and video, and actual performance differences between manufacturers are minimal compared to several years ago. However, this doesn’t mean that you should consider all cameras the same! Even within the same company, there are some cameras that lean towards specific aspects of video and photography more than others. Some things to consider when looking at a camera include whether it will be used for stills or video, for action photography or landscape/studio usage, and whether you need hardcore weatherproofing or if you’ll be using it in a pretty safe and clean environment. As far as companies go, the three big ones on the market (Canon, Nikon, and Sony) are all safe bets with excellent equipment and widespread support. Canon has the most market share right now, and is extremely well supported in lenses and in specialist video equipment, but is falling behind a bit in terms of innovation (no 4k video in 2015 is just plain disappointing.) Nikon also has a tremendous amount of lenses (including some truly excellent ones ranging back to 1977 that are still usable on their current cameras!) but they aren’t as well supported in the industry when it comes to video and are sought after primarily by still photographers. Sony is rising quickly in the market, with their Mirrorless cameras making a big splash due to excellent sensors providing fantastic still and video quality and a much more compact size, but they have a significantly smaller library of lenses and don’t have a lot of support yet when it comes to external video equipment and compatibility. (Fun fact: current Nikon cameras use Sony sensors!) 

• IGNORE MEGAPIXELS AND LOOK FOR LOW LIGHT CAPABILITY: Anymore, all new DSLR cameras on the market will be between 16 to 24 megapixels. This is very nice; it gives you an excellent amount of wiggle room when cropping or resizing images, and lets you print at any size even after cropping (literally; once you hit 12 megapixels, you can print well beyond a 40x60 inch print without losing any quality.) However, this means that having more megapixels doesn’t instantly make a camera better. The new stat that you should be looking at is called ISO - it’s effectively measuring the sensitivity of the camera’s sensor to light. In a nutshell, the higher the max ISO number, the more sensitive the camera is to light, allowing for you to capture action in lower light conditions without having to use a flash. The downside to high ISO is that your pictures will come out grainy or noisy - blacks no longer appear black, but instead have tiny red/green/blue pixels that make the image look distorted and low-detail. This is where most camera advancement has taken place in the past 4 to 5 years - not only has the maximum ISO limit been raised, but the quality at higher ISOs is infinitely cleaner then 5 or 10 years ago. But this is where the comparison images I mentioned above come into play! Even if two different cameras can get to the same ISO level, it doesn’t mean the images will be the same! Different sensors and processors can make one camera cleaner at higher ISO levels than the other, so again - do some research to see if you’re ok with the limitations of the camera at hand! 

• GET A GRIP, ERGONOMICS ARE IMPORTANT: I cannot stress this enough. If you’re looking at cameras, GO TO A LOCAL STORE AND HOLD THE CAMERA IN YOUR HANDS BEFORE YOU BUY. Even if you’re just window shopping and plan to buy it on the internet, go test the camera out at a local electronics or camera store. Seeing what a camera looks like on the internet is fine and dandy, but you need to get an idea of how the camera and lenses will feel in your hands. It sounds like a small thing, but think of it this way - no matter how cool that shirt or pair of shoes might look on the web, if it’s uncomfortable you aren’t going to wear it! The same goes with cameras and lenses - people have differently sized hands, and some grips feel more comfortable than others. Additionally, weight is a significant factor - if you get tired easily, or have a disability, or are traveling and need to keep it light, you HAVE to consider the weight of both the camera and any lenses or other equipment. Some of these combos can get pretty heavy, pretty quickly! 

• CONSIDER USED AND THIRD PARTY EQUIPMENT, AND BUDGET ACCORDINGLY: Money goes fast when looking at photo equipment; most new camera-and-lens kits retail for between $600 to $850 dollars, and that’s with the most basic of lenses. If you’re on a budget for gear, then absolutely take a look at any used equipment that camera stores may offer - it’s a great way of lowering the initial cost. The amount of incredibly clean and barely-used cameras that we get in is frankly incredible, and you can find excellent deals if you shop around for used equipment.  Don’t think you always have to get the latest and greatest gear; when I got started shooting with a digital camera back in 2010, I had a Canon Rebel XSi that I bought on clearance for under $500 - a camera from 2008 that I used until 2013. ( I would recommend buying a camera that uses SD cards instead of CF - SD cards are everywhere these days, most laptops have an SD card reader built in, and they’re usually really cheap.) When it comes to buying new, don’t be afraid to look at third-party equipment as well! There’s multiple lens manufacturers out there, and right now they’re putting out some amazing gear. Tamron and Sigma are the two you’ll hear the most about, but others include Tokina, Rokinon, and luxury dealers such as Zeiss. Usually, you’ll find lenses that are comparable optically to first-party manufacturers, but are about 100-200 dollars less; no Brand Name Tax on an item that’s just as good. My advice - if the lens is under $800, go third-party. It’s less money for the same quality. Once you hit the $800 to $1000 mark, that’s when the first party stuff starts showing some actual advantages over third-party.
  
  
• SHOP LOCALLY IF YOU CAN: If you’ve got enough money and can do so, please buy local! Camera shops across the nation are struggling, and need all the local support they can get. If local camera shops go away, then you’re left stuck with no one to actually talk to face-to-face about any issues you might have (and lose the ability to try before you buy!) Additionally, most camera stores carry other equipment you might need - filters, tripods, and printing services to name a few. They’re useful to have around, especially if a problem shows up with your camera.
  
  
• …. BUT DON’T HAGGLE ABOUT THE PRICES: This is a personal plea from a salesperson - I understand that this stuff can get really pricey, really fast… but if you wouldn’t haggle at a Best Buy, then haggling at a local store shouldn’t be acceptable either. Most, if not all, local camera stores are already price-matching the industry standard on regular photo gear; prices that are usually set by B&H or Adorama, the two biggest names in photography retail. Those two marketplaces singlehandedly determine and control the prices for photographic gear, and any camera store worth their salt will already be matching their prices for the most part. Rebates do happen, and often - equipment manufacturers will oftentimes have instant or mail-in rebates that help shave some of the cost off of the price of your gear. But if there isn’t a rebate, please understand that there’s not much we can do about pricing on new equipment. A camera store will make roughly $50 in profit off of a $750 camera - we’re buying them from the dealer at almost the same price we’re selling them at. Sometimes you may be able to get some used equipment for a bit lower than listed, but don’t count on it.
  
  
• WARRANTIES ARE NICE, BUT FOR ACTUAL SAFETY INSURE YOUR ITEMS: Pretty much all cameras come standard with a 1 year warranty across the board. There’s no drops or spills here - this is strictly for if your screen suddenly dies on you, or the camera refuses to power up no matter how many fully-charged batteries you put in. Most camera stores offer an extended warranty of some kind; always check to see what it offers. Some are only an extension on the warranty you get with the camera; some actually do add in drop/spill protection. The absolute safest way to protect your camera, however, is to add it to an insurance policy (renters or homeowners for non-professionals) if possible. This allows you to put in a claim in case of any form of breakage, or in case of theft (which NO warranty, out-of-box or in-store, will cover.) It’s a tremendous help and a wonderful safety net to have, but understandably isn’t an option for everyone.
  
  
• ALWAYS GET A UV FILTER FOR YOUR LENS: This is something I cannot recommend enough. Yes, UV filters are essentially a clear piece of glass you’re putting in front of your lens, but I have seen them save cameras and lenses from near certain destruction. One person who came into work tripped on a light cable while covering a Color Run and landed with his $1000 lens landing flat onto concrete, with the glass shattering. Once he took a look at his lens and plucked the fragments of glass out, he went back to shooting - because it was the UV filter that had shattered, and not the lens itself. While it’s clearly not going to protect it from certain impacts or damages, when it comes to protecting the front of your lens, UV filters are absolute champs. 
  
  
• DON’T WORRY ABOUT WHAT OTHER PEOPLE ARE BUYING: Yes, the pros might flaunt their $2000 lenses and high-end professional cameras at you, but as long as you’re satisfied with the pictures you’re getting, then you’ve made the right choice of equipment. The photography bug can be pretty bad; once bitten, you’ll find yourself eyeing each and every new piece of gear that comes out, and walking into a camera store will be like stepping back into Toys R’ Us all over again, but more expensive. But ultimately, even the oldest, most basic DSLR and lens combo is capable of taking absolutely incredible photographs when used in the right way. Don’t worry about what other people have in their camera bag; worry about getting the right equipment for you and your budget, and get out there and make some art!