#kendall shanks

The dance of the Devils

by Kendall Shanks

The weekend of January 28 was time for special celebration in the indigenous community of Boruca. The LIU Global Class of 2021 was invited to watch the “Dance of the Devils,” a ceremonial reenactment of the colonization of the Boruca people by the Spaniards. After a windy drive of nearly six hours through the lush mountains of Puntarenas, Costa Rica’s Southwestern-most province, we took the final eight-kilometer bumpy ride in the mountains to the Boruca community.

           On the way to Boruca we were given a brief explanation of the ceremony and the other traditional activities were going to experience, including the milking of shells for purple dye and the creation of traditional art pieces.

           We arrived just after sundown and were greeted with smiling faces and plates full of rice and beans. Margarita, a Boruca community leader, welcomed us and we were split into different houses, each group staying with a community member. After we were told breakfast time was a sharp 6:30, we made our way to bed to catch up on some sleep.

           The many roosters, dogs, and other various animals in the area had a different idea.

           We caught a couple Z’s, saw a couple bugs, and heard the rooster bright and early…all night long. All hope was not lost! After a quick breakfast we headed two hours to Playa Ventana and were able to get a little sleep on the way.

           Playa Ventana is a beautiful beach characterized by hiding tides, rocky beaches and rocky cliffs in the distance. As we sat in the early morning sun, Margarita shared with us the steps to extract purple dye from shells. There are certain shells that cling to the cliffs in the distance. The shells secrete a liquid that appears greenish-white until it comes in contact with fabric or cotton when it turns a vibrant purple color. Margarita explained why although it is a difficult process to extract the color, it is important to her to pass on the traditional to younger Boruca members to keep the Boruca culture alive.

           After a few hours of free time on the beautiful beach, we followed Boruca members on a small hike up the forested cliffs in search of the shells. Finding over a half a dozen shells, we made our way back down the beautiful cliff, of course after we snapped countless photos, in search of another beach.

           We made the trip to Playa Uva, a spot known for its beautiful caves. We grabbed a few coconuts under the palm trees before soaking up our last rays for the day.

           We headed to a little house a few kilometers from Boruca and Margarita introduced us to a family friend. He showed us traditional dye may from fruits used for temporary tattooing, similar to henna. While we waited in anticipation for the start of the “Dance of the Devils” ceremony, we took turns painting each other with fun designs.

           And then we heard the chanting! A stream of Boruca people adorned with colorful masks chanted as a man in a bull costume, representative of the Spaniards, tried feverishly to knock over the masked warriors. After nearly half an hour of this back and forth, the masked Boruca chased off the bull and headed to another location to celebrate the night’s festivities. This retelling of the colonization of indigenous people with the Boruca winning the battle is one way the people of Boruca hold on the legacy and strength of a culture that predates the colonization of the Americas.

           As we took the bumpy path back into the mountains, we were lured with promises of a campfire and Boruca legends. Margarita did not fail us. With bellies full of rice, hearts of palm, and the best plantain ceviche around, we were told of the legend of the Boruca waterfalls. After a long day of adventuring, we went to bed early again, prepared to travel home the next day.

           The Boruca community sent us off with bellies full of fruit, but not before taking us to the waterfalls of the previous night’s legend. Because it is a sacred area, it is only respectful to visit the cascades with a member of the tribe, so we followed along as we started another adventure. 

           We took the tiring trip back to Costa Rica’s Central Valley with a full belly, full hearts, and enough stories to last a lifetime.