Notice it’s not “A Beginner’s Guide…” this time because this can apply to everyone really. (As do all of my guides but this one especially.) I’ve been getting a lot of questions lately about dressing to fit certain body types and how this can work for Lolita so I decided to put all of my tips for it into one post. One thing I did to start was I found a guide to dressing for your body type for “normal” fashion. From there, I modified it to fit into Lolita. This guide is going to be based on the following body type chart so the first step is to decide where you fit.
Triangle Shape: Also called the pear shape. This means you carry more weight below your waist than above. This could cause a problem with choosing skirts because your waist is generally a bit smaller than your hips and you will need to find skirts that either zip up the side or back or that have enough elastic that they can stretch over your hips. The good thing about this though is that Lolita skirts cut at the waist and rest on the hips so having larger hips can actually help your petticoat fill out your skirt even better and the shape of the skirt will hide the fact that you have larger hips. Because of your larger hips though you should wear a slightly less fluffy petticoat because otherwise the volume may not be evenly distributed throughout the skirt. Unfortunately this means that A-line skirts aren’t as flattering for you unless you specially made a petticoat that only has fluff at the bottom. When choosing a blouse, look for something that draws the attention to your upper body. Medium to high necks are recommended as well as details such as ruffles and large bows to draw the eye away from your hips and up to your upper body. This can also be done with necklaces and other accessories.
Inverted Triangle Shape: This means you have a large bust and/or broad shoulders with a smaller waist and narrow hips. Medium to low necklines are good for this body type, but still modest. So, low, but not so low that you’re showing cleavage. Since you have a larger bust, try to stay away from blouses with too many ruffles and bows and details because that will just draw the attention to your chest. Also avoid high necklines and big collars as they will make your shoulders look broader. A-line skirts are also very flattering for this body type but of course that narrows your choices in styles down to Classic Lolita and some Gothic Lolita. You can definitely get away with the regular bell-shape and it will be good for you because it will cover the narrowness of your hips.
Rectangle Shape: This means your bust and hips are about the same width with little definition at your waist. Your bust will generally be small or medium in size. The rectangle shape is fairly difficult to dress because really tight clothes look weird and baggy clothes look weird. You’ll want a blouse that is fitted, but doesn’t fully hug your body. An un-tucked blouse with lace or a ruffle at the bottom would probably be the most flattering blouse for you. Also, most necklines can be good for this body type depending on the rest of the blouse. A low, rounded neckline can be great with a tucked blouse while medium-high necklines can be great with untucked blouses. Lolita skirts are very flattering for this body shape whether they are bell-shaped or A-line. The best kind of dress though would be one with a defined waist or even a corset if you really want to help define your waist.
Hourglass shape: This means you have about the same size bust and hips but with a very defined waist. Very soft, flowing fabrics like chiffon are very flattering for this body type but they should be nicely fitted and not baggy. For blouses, low to medium necklines are the best choice. For skirts, any style really works well except for skirts with open pleats. Also, avoid empire waist dresses because they don’t flatter your waist well.
Diamond shape: This means that you carry most of your weight around your stomach. You probably have small shoulders and hips. The idea is to draw the eye away from your stomach. Medium to low necklines are best for this and necklaces and other accessories can be added to draw the eye up. Empire waist dresses can be good for this body shape because they cut just below the bust and flare out from there which will help cover up the weight of your stomach. Tucked in blouses are also not flattering so if you’re wearing a blouse and skirt look for a blouse with a ruffle at the bottom so it doesn’t need to be tucked in.
Rounded Shape: Also known as an apple shape. Weight is generally dispersed fairly evenly with a fuller and less defined waist. May have large, low stomachs. If you have this body type, you should avoid empire waist or short waist dresses as they cut right under the bust which is not flattering because this body type tends to include a larger bust. Since your waistline is generally not very well defined, attempt to mask that by wearing things that will help define it. A corset is an option but if you have a very large bust a corset will only make it seem larger which can be unflattering in Lolita. A well-defined waistline will help define your figure though and one way to pull this off is to wear skirt and blouse coordinates because the division between the two pieces will split your body into two sections at the waist. This can also be achieved with dresses that have waist ties the whole way around or even a cute belt. If you have a large bust as this body shape tends to entail, stay away from blouses with high necks and a lot of detail because that will draw the eye to your bust instead of your waist. Also be on the lookout for pieces that have shirring in the back. Full shirring can be a good option though as long as your bust isn’t too much larger than your waist.
For every body size and shape there will be items that flatter you and items that don’t. To quote Sheyne Fleischer’s article “Looking Your Best” (found in the 4th English volume of the Gothic and Lolita Bible): “Just because an item fits doesn’t mean it flatters you, though. Don’t try to force yourself and your body into a style of dress that simply doesn’t suit you at all! Use common sense and a critical eye when trying on items.” Lolita isn’t just about the clothes themselves: how many dresses you have, what brand the dresses are, etc. It’s about how you wear them and looking your best in them and looking your best has a lot to do with knowing your body and being comfortable with dressing to flatter it.
(Credit for the first drawing goes to Aimee Major Steinberger)
