#pfwss17

Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring/Summer 2017 collectionfromSebastian Munier is one that will resonate very well with Ann Demeulemeester loyal fans who’ve worn the designer since the beginning. The quotes and phrases on the garments are exactly what Ann would have done. This collection is clean and also features a little bit of the asymmetry that Ann was known for. This is one brand where sticking to codes is a must, and it was good to see he did a little more than usual with this collection. Sometimes Munier’s collections are a little too colorful for my liking, but this was simply perfect. There was so much to choose from including the knits, the jewelry, the pants were tailored impeccably and the jackets were a few of the highlights that really stood out to me. 

Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2017 Collection was one of my favorite Yohji collections of late. The collection showcased what looked like hand written Yohji slogans and was an amazing balance between dreary and romance. Everything was light-weight and effortless, something I’ve really been drawn to this season. Menswear of today definitely feels too forced, with everyone wanting to be different by doing the same things. Each season, Yohji is the designer who gives it to you like it is without having to explain much or even anything at all. His collections are grown up and elevated above the rest. For Spring/Summer 2017, I get a similar vibe that I felt from Haider Ackermann’s showing, rough, dramatic, a little melancholy but definitely romantic and hopeful. This is the kind of edge that I am drawn to. It makes you dream. Here are some of my favorite looks above. 

RecentlyCedric Jacquemyn has become my go to for everything. These days either I am going out and just throwing on a Cedric Jacquemyn suit jacket, getting ready for work and don’t want to think about getting dressed, or just casually getting dressed with a t-shirt and a pair of Cedric Jacquemyn trousers. For Spring/Summer 2017 “Here is No Border Only Dust” Collection, Jacquemyn continues to create a wardrobe for his die hards. Well known for his weavery and photographed by frequent collaborator Yves De Brabander, it’s a collection that reminds you Cedric Jacquemyn is the definition of Artisanal Craft. The collection also continues his collaboration with Nico Uytterhaegen. Take a look back for more from this collection.

Every season I get this sense from watching Boris Bidjan Saberi’s collections that he’s designing for more than just himself. He has amassed a large cult following over the years because he is so specific and designs for an equally as specific person. The Rick Owens customer is not necessarily the BBS customer and he’s done a good job to distinguish himself from other niche avant-garde designers. For Spring/Summer 2017, he continues to expand his palette. Although not my favorite BBS collection there was a lot to take in. I love his knack for a slouchy fit and his layering technique. The knits were a highlight of mine as well as the drop crotch shorts. If you know me well, you know I am almost always wearing drop crotch.

TheSpring/Summer 2017 “Knives” Collection from Japanese brand Julius was a lot more relaxed and laid back than most of his collections in recent memory. With this collection, Tatsuro  Horikawa made sure to cover all of the basics of the Julius man’s wardrobe. There was simple suiting, trousers, a lot of garments made from sweatshirt material, it was very light-weight, airy and free. This collection was one of no restraints. Just simple (a Julius kind of simple), unforced and effortless. Many of the pieces wrapped around the body in a very appealing way. So much to choose from. Here are a few of my favorite looks above.

I am someone who is loyal to brands that evolve season to season rather than change rapidly. Rick Owens is a brand that has done that effortlessly throughout its growth. This collection is a good example of that, building on the elongated and boxy proportions from last season’s FW16 MASTADON collection. Here the signature silhouette was long bottom and cropped skin-tight upper. We see the evolution of colors used in this collection like lemon, persimmon and marine while staying true to the Rick Owens signature black. He masterfully played with draping which resulted in happy accidents of ruffled fabric. Honestly, it was a good collection and I’m hoping for more next season. More layers, more options to choose from, more wardrobe staples for a Rick Owens die hard like myself. Here are a few of my favorites above and below. (images courtesy of VR)