#formal wear

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Me and my mom in kimono for some family cerebral occasion.

My kimono is called “iromuji (the plain-colored)”, which is a formal or semi formal attire for woman in Japan, especially preferred at formal tea ceremony (showy kimonos are averted to bring artistic tea utensils out prominence). Mine has a (tiny) maternal family crest in white under the neck on the back and can be used as a formal wear. Though “iromuji” is plain-looking at first glance, you’ll often notice a beautiful, delicate woven pattern in close. The obi (“nagoya-obi”, in this case) includes modest but multiple colors (pale orange, blue, yellow and pink) so it is relatively easy to apply to kimonos in other colors too. In addition, it has no seasonal symbols so that you can use it through three seasons (for summer and semi-summer, you need thinner, different types of obi, as well as kimonos).

My mom’s kimono type is called “tsukesage”. While “houmongi” is one of the highest ranked formal wear, “tsukesage” is more flexible to various occasions from such as watching a play and small party to wedding ceremony and formal celebration party (in that case, you often apply “fukuro-obi” intead of “nagoya-obi”, more high-ranked longer obi). The face of the dull-silver “fukuro-obi” is made of Japanese paper (“washi”); silver leaf is pasted and woven onto the thick silk base. It gets less damaged than it looks for some reason even if you tie repetitively. The picture on the obi shows some shinto festival and it should be suitable for celeblation. Anyway, it’s a quite rare kind of craftwork.

These days you can wear and arrange kimono as you like, but it’s only limited to your daily-clothes cases. Ignoring kimono protocol at a formal occasion is to be considered definitely rude and people would be offended by that here in Japan. On the other hand, overdone attaire should look very peculier for just a casual ocasion. There are many rules by season, for materials and patterns. If you don’t know much, you’d better search on the net or ask someone who knows kimono well (…not me).

家の慶事にて母娘で着物。

自分の着物は色無地。日本女性の礼装ないし略礼装で、特に畏まった茶会で好まれる(芸術品でもある茶道具を引き立たせるため茶席では派手な着物は敬遠される)。着ているものは背中の首の下に白抜き一ツ紋(代々母方の紋を入れる)が入っているため、礼装としても使用可。色無地は一見地味だが、よく見ると往々にして繊細で美しい地模様のあるのが見て取れる。している帯(名古屋帯)には控えめながらも複数の色(淡いオレンジ、水色、黄、ピンク)が入っており、他の色の着物にも合わせやすい。付け加えると、季節の柄が入っていないので3シーズン使える(6月から9月は薄い別素材の帯が要る。もちろん着物も単衣や夏着物)。

母の着物は付け下げ。訪問着が最上格の礼装であるのに対し、付け下げは観劇や小さなパーティーから結婚式、祝賀会と応用範囲が広い(結婚式や大きなパーティーには往々にして名古屋帯ではなく格上の長い袋帯を合わせる)。この鈍色の袋帯の表面は和紙でできており、銀の箔がなされ正絹の土台に織り込まれたもの。繰り返し締めても不思議と見た目より傷みにくい。絵柄はなにか祭のようだ。祝いごとには相応しい柄だろう。何れにせよ非常に珍しい工芸品である。

昨今では着物の着こなしは比較的自由だが、それは普段着に限った話。フォーマルな場では好き勝手な着方をしていると礼を欠き、人々の気分を害することになりかねない。逆にカジュアルな場で大袈裟な装いをしていても極めて奇妙だ。季節ごとや裂地(きれじ)・柄のルールも、こと細かにある。分からない場合は、調べるか詳しい人にたずねた方が良い(ちなみに自分はさして詳しくない)。

JC Leyendecker again.

Such a great artist. About 1910 or so.

Lucky Blue Smith for Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Spring-Summer 2022

Lucky Blue Smith for Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Spring-Summer 2022


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artfulfashion: From the Pamella Roland RTW Spring 2022 Collection Pamella Roland Spring RTW 2022

artfulfashion:

From the Pamella Roland RTW Spring 2022 Collection

Pamella Roland Spring RTW 2022


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the-fashion-dish:

Georges Hobeika Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2021

Wow!! no words can explain the beauty of this…. This colour pallet would have to be my fav, its soft pretty and reminds me of spring my birth season!! I would feel like a million dollars wearing any of these! But If I had to pick the 3rd mint dress!! 

it’s a super fancy dress kind of day

it’s a super fancy dress kind of day


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