#kimono coat
和装コート
お洋服のコートと同じ素材が多いですが、一番異なる点は着物に合わせて衿まわり、袖まわりがゆったりと作られています。
また、背中周りや身幅も帯があることを考えて作られ余裕があります。コートですので、丈は長めが多いです。
Kururi suggests this long woolen “kimono coat” instead of the usual shawl or haori, and you can instantly appreciate the formal winter-coat feel that it gives with the soft silver color, unlike a brightly patterned silk or polyester haori. This is your ultimate modern lady’s coat with wide sleeves and deep collar, matching wonderfully the ultra-delicate pastel and white colors of the coordination– you could wear this to a wedding, a kabuki performance or a family ceremony at a shrine.
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Evening Coat
Lucile
1911
Purple silk velvet and gold lame opera coat with silk satin lining and integral gold lame waistcoat.
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Evening Coat
Liberty & Co.
1925
Orange silk rayon jacquard with yellow chrysanthemum pattern; cuffs, front opening and hem in gold rayon; collar of beaver.
Images and text taken from the book:
Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century, Kyoto Costume Institute, pgs 446-447.
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Coat
Cristobal Balenciaga
House of Balenciaga
1927
Straight, mid-calf coat, based on the shape of a triangle. The large collar, crossover lapel, long sleeves and cuffs are decorated with ermine fur.
In this coat, made in San Sebastian, Balenciaga evoked the lines that define the Japanese kimono, one of the most influential garments in European fashion of the twenties. In perfect tune with the aesthetics of those years, the wide turndown collar and the sleeve cuffs were adorned with ermine fur.
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Ensemble
Christian Dior/John Galliano
Haute Couture
Spring/Summer 1998
Two-piece coat and dress ensemble, Lamé embossed aged gold lamé gold silk lining; Embossed silk with golden son, mottled silk lining.
Magazine text: “John Galliano creates a look that mixes many classic Asian shapes. Pyramid-line kimono coat and lame dress with train.”
Image Sources: 1|2 | 3 | 4|5 | 6 | 7|8
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Velvet Coat
Christian Dior/John Galliano
Haute Couture
1997-1998
“A Luxe fur collar adds an opulent note to a hand-painted hammered-velvet coat.“
Magazine Editorials - US Vogue November 1997
‘Bohemian Rhapsody’
Photographer: Ellen von Unwerth
Fashion editor: Grace Coddington
Model: Karen Elson
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“Iris Noir”
Kimono Coat
Jeanne Lanvin
1935
Black and white silk taffeta kimono sleeve wrap coat. Using traditional Japanese construction techniques, a simplistic functional form is seamed from a single square of material resulting in minimal waste. Pure in form and function, the use of classic black and white is textured by the use of trapunto-stitch detail, which binds the black exterior with the white interior while adding additional body to the structure and warmth for the wearer.
Image and text taken from: Lanvin - Dean L. Merceron, pgs 281-282.
(I came across these old scans, will re-do when I get hold of the book again.)
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