Geisha (or Geiko in Kyoto dialect) have a long and interesting path through Japanese history. They are certainly engrained within Japanese old culture and still have their own places in new day Japan.
Contrary to popular belief, Geisha’s are not ‘classy prostitutes’, infact that seem to take on a roll of abstinents while in their profession. Sex is forbidden by the house ‘Okaa-san’. These girls (and though rare, some men) go through much training and discomfort to become ‘living art’. What they sell is their company, time and artistic nature.
The stigma which surrounds the present day Geisha of being ‘classy prostitutes’ comes from World War II. As during the days which America occupied the nation, prostitutes walked the street calling themselves “Geisha Girls”.
There is no doubt that coerced sex and bidding on a new geisha’s virginity occurred in the period before WWII… After Japan lost the war, geisha dispersed and the profession was in shambles. When they regrouped during the Occupation and began to flourish in the 1960s during Japan’s postwar economic boom, the geisha world changed. In modern Japan, girls are not sold into indentured service, nor are they coerced into sexual relations. Nowadays, a geisha’s sex life is her private affair
That being said, there is no doubt that during and pre 1800’s Geisha’s (and the equivalents) were surrounded with and tended to perform sexual acts with their customers / lovers. As it was not a taboo or uncommon thing for a male to ‘cheat’ on their wives and take many a courtesan.
How are you all doing? How is your daily routine while self isolating or in quarantine? To pass some time i compiled some photos of Geisha around Japan doing mundane things while inside. Just for the sake of it.
“This exhibition will present the kimono as a dynamic and constantly evolving icon of fashion, revealing the sartorial, aesthetic and social significance of the garment from the 1660s to the present day, both in Japan and the rest of the world.”
Earlier this year I completed a project for this exhibition, making eleven “wigs” for the fibreglass mannequin heads in hairstyles to represent different periods in Japanese history.
(Image credit: Rachael Lee, Textile Conservation Display Specialist in the Textile Conservation Department at the V&A)
The wigs for this exhibition were intended to be abstract and an impression of the silhouette, rather than incredibly detailed, so as not to distract too much from the costume displayed on the mannequins. When wigs are requested for mannequins, they are often made in house at the museum by the Textiles Conservation and Mounting Department, but due to restrictions on time they were outsourced on this occasion. I was involved in a similar project for another V&A exhibition back in 2018, “Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up”, which involved making three headdresses constructed from paper flowers. One of my previous blog posts details the making of these.
The wigs for the Kimonos exhibition were to be made from milliners crinoline, or “crin” for short, which in its nature is really springy and easy to make into voluminous shapes. Crin is an extremely versatile fabric that can be used for millinery, craft and haberdashery as well as fashion and dressmaking. The intention was to form shapes by manipulating it and stitching it together, then attaching these pieces to a Rigiline frame which would sit on the head of the mannequins. Rigilene is a type of boning made of woven nylon rods and can be stitched directly to fabric, without a casing.
“One of the challenges we regularly encounter when displaying head wear is how to achieve a good fit with proper support when headdresses are designed to be worn upon elaborate hair styles. The solution to this quandary would appear easy enough; give heads hair. This seemingly straight forward answer was not as easy to apply as one might think largely due to exhibition designers and curators desire to display objects on non-realistic, abstract mannequin forms. This current trend is considered least distracting to the audience’s appreciation of the costume itself.”
My contact at the museum was Rachael Lee, a Textile Conservation Display Specialist in the Textile Conservation Department, who had been working for many months displaying numerous kimonos for the exhibition. She and some of her colleagues had already worked on a couple of protoypes of the wigs that were sent to me to get an idea of the forms they wanted. I was however told that I was to have creative control over the wigs and to have fun with them!
For the eleven wigs that they wanted I was supplied with reference images to work from.
The wigs were to be built on to Rigilene frames. I first measured the circumference of the fibreglass head at approximately the point where I wanted the hairline of the wigs to sit. I left a bit of slack knowing that the frame would get packed out a bit when the crinoline layers were attached. I cut a strip of Rigilene that was overlong so that it could be overlapped and joined together to form a circle, I drilled a series of small holes through the overlapped pieces and then stitched through them to hold the loop together. A second piece of Rigilene was then cut to span the top of the head, and it was joined to the first ring, slightly off centre, in same way using thread. Finally, a shorter piece was cut to tether the outer ring and the central bar together at the back.
As the Rigilene was quite springy, initially I temporarily joined the overlapped pieces using a dab of superglue and held them in place with a bulldog clip whilst it set. This then helped as the two pieces of Rigilene were set in place and held together for me to drill the holes using my Dremel. This process was reproduced a number of times to give me enough frames to experiment with and work from.
As I was working remotely from home, I sent many images of the wigs at various points in their construction to Rachael Lee, who in turn showed them to the curators who gave me feedback during the making process. I had never worked with either Rigilene or crin before so it was a learning curve, manipulating the crin into different shapes and forms to make the 2D images I had into three dimensional forms was a fun challenge!
Further blog posts are to follow in the coming days about the steps I took to create these flamboyant wigs, from the subdued “Gibson Girl” through to the elaborate “Courtesan” with some more modern “Memoirs of a Geisha” characters thrown in I feel I have learnt a lot about Japanese hairstyles along the way!
With commentary by okami and Tsukasa-tayuu of Suehiroya. This broadcast was filmed on a business trip in Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture, Japan with Mai-san, a geisha from the Higashiyama Onsen Geisha Association.
Kashi no Shiki (かしの式)
Dance - Inishie (いにしえ) by Aoi-tayuu (葵太夫)
Dance - Momiji no Hashi (もみじの橋) by Kotono-kamuro (琴乃)
Dance - Hagikikyou (萩桔梗) by Aoi-tayuu (葵太夫)
Biwa - Mongaku Hotsushin (文覚發心) by Aoi-tayuu (葵太夫)
Dance - Aizu Kankou Kouta (会津観光小唄) by Mai-geigi (真衣)
