#nasjonalmuseet
Costumes worn by Prince Carl (later king Haakon of Norway), princess Maud (later queen Maud of Norway) and princess Victoria, photographed by Lafayette on July 2, 1897, and two of the attires worn. The Lafayette photo comes from the Royal Archives at Windsor.
The occasion was a grand fancy dress ball hosted in London by the Duchess of Devonshire, in honour of queen Victoria’s 1897 Jubilee. Whereas the queen herself was not at the ball, many of her closest family members were.
The theme of the ball was allegorical or historical (pre 1815) figures. The Prince of Wales, later king Edward VII, came as grand prior of “The Order of St. John of Jerusalem”, while his wife Alexandra came as the French Renaissance queen Marguerite de Valois.
Their daughers were dressed as Renaissance ladies-in-waiting to the “Marguerite de Valois”, in similar corseted, slashed and collared dresses, while Danish prince Carl appeared as a Danish Renaissance courtier. I have never been able to find out the colour of princess Victoria’s dress. But the garments of her sister and brother in law were predominantely pink, purple and metallic. This we know because their attires are wonderfully preserved!
Princess Maud’s attire was made by French Morin-Blossier. The main fabric is a pink silk satin, appliquéed with sheer silk fabric in a diagonal pattern. The silk has then been embellished with silvery sequins and beads. In addition there’s paned sleeves and bodice details with the same sheer silk poking through, and a Recitella-style standing collar and cuffs.
It is not known who made prince Carl’s attire. But it is made of a black silk satin elaborately embroidered with silk and beads. In addition elastic purple hoses of wool and silk, thigh-high black boots, lace collar and cuffs, and a merallic belt with sword. And not to forget the matching tall, plumed hat. To look the part, the prince even wore a fake beard, to get the proper Renaissance look!
Today the costumes are is in the care of The National Museum in Oslo (OK-1991-0256 and OK-1991-0251).
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Evolution in women’s fashion in Europe, 1770s to 1910s
All attires from The National Museum in Oslo
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Queen Maud + pink
Of the wardrobe today in The National Museum in Oslo, a predominantely large part of the dresses are pink. It’s said to have been Queen Maud’d favourite colour, especially the more beige dominated borderlining “deadleaf”, the big hit colour of the 1930s. Pink is present in her wedding trousseau, in her exquisite 1897 fancy dress, in day dresses and in gala gowns. Here’s some favourites (all in the care of The National Museum in Oslo).
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Queen Maud + sports
When then Princess Maud of Wales married in 1896, her trousseau (I.E. her new wardrobe) was discussed in detail in the press. Some magazines was surprised by the amount of “sportswear” and the lack of grand robes, especially considering her mother Alexandra being one of the absolute fashion icons of the time, and she was known for a more opulent style.
The love for sports would be vital in Queen Maud’s life. She was one of the first of the British royal family to ride a bike in public, and she loved riding, skating and tennis. When she became the queen of Norway in 1906, she immediately learned skiing, toboganning and other winter sports. When staying at the royal winter residence, she usually went skiing twice a day.
But for all these activities she used skirts, and always rode side-saddle. Not until the 1930s does skiing trousers appear in her wardrobe. She was surprisingly fit and muscular due to her active lifestyle, and can be seen in many a sleeveless gala gown in the 1930s - she was then well into her 60s.
From top left:
- Riding attire for side saddle, 1920-26. Made by Busvine & Co ( X)
- Queen Maud riding at Bygdø in Oslo, 1910-15
- Riding attire for side saddle, early 1920s. Made by Busvine & Co ( X)
- Description of Maud’s trousseau from “The Queen, 1896
- Then princess Maud, newly wed, biking at Sandringham, 1896
- Sports suit, 1896, part of Maud’s trousseau. Made by Vernon ( X)
- Knitted wool coat trimmed with fur, ca. 1920 ( X)
- Queen Maud skiing in Oslo, 1927-35 sometime
- Wool coat trimmed with fur, late 1920s ( X)
As a bonus: here’s Queen Maud’s ice skates and roller skates from around 1900. They’re essentially sports boots with a separate metal bottom screwed or strapped on the boots. And yeah, high heels were essential.
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Silk brocade dress from the 1820s
If looking closer, it becomes clear the hem is a patchwork of scraps, though the flower pattern appears fairly continued. This dress is an example of rich 18th century silk brocades being re-used in a later century and for a new fashion. Although light cotton fabrics are the “typical” look of a Regency dress, a fine silk like this would definitely have been appreciated, and it has been utilized in the best possible manner.
I suspect the ruffle on the hem and the sleeves is original pieces from the previous garment. But other details, like the skillfully tabbed and puffed sleeves, looks like a brand new detail.
From The National Museum in Oslo (OK-07407)
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