#kyoto costume institute
1840s silk dresses, with focus on fan pleated bodices and shot silk
- Blue/golden shot silk day dress, ca. 1849, probably USA. From The Museum at FIT (P86.37.1)
- Blue/purple shot silk day dress, ca. 1845, England. From The Kyoto Costume Institute (AC4474.83-11-10)
- Golden/beige evening dress, ca. 1845, USA. From The Museum at FIT (P88.25.3)
- Portrait of Cecilie Birgitte Mathiesen, née Boldt, 1845-50. Painted by David Monies. From Linderud Manor, Oslo.
- Portrait of Agnes Hedevig Mathiesen, née Ruwald, 1845-50. Painted by Friedlander. From Linderud Manor, Oslo.
- Portrait of Juliane Elise Larpent, née Mathiesen, 1845-50. Painted by David Monies. From Linderud Manor, Oslo.
- Rust/blue shot silk afternoon dress, ca. 1845, USA. From The Metropolitan Museum of Art (2009.300.933)
- Green/brown day dress, 1840s. From The Shippensburg University Fashion Archives and Museum (SUFAM).
- Green day dress, 1840s. From The Tasha Tudor Collection, at the 2012 Whitaker Auction.
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Evening Coat
House of Chanel
Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel
1927
Silk jacquard patterned with black and green graduation and gold chrysanthemum motif; matching tie-collar; two panels at back; wadded sleeve hems.
The chrysanthemum had often appeared as a fashionable motif sine the latter half of the nineteenth century. The textile with woven chrysanthemums in Japanese makie-like (gold lacquer) style represents the taste of Art Deco. The soft wadded cuffs are similar to the kimono’s fuki (wadded hem) in style.
Images and text taken from the book:
Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century, Kyoto Costume Institute, pgs 448-449.
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