I’m happy to say the fashion business always gives you a lot to talk about, a lot to work on, you basically never get bored. And that’s why I decided that it was time to find some way to talk about all the fashion news I want to comment, the ones which definitely need my opinion to be spoken out loud. I thought, let’s do a big review of the most important news of the week (each week), shall we?
I was lucky that this idea came this week, because the great Cruise season has finally started, so we’ve been blessed by loads of new clothes and dresses by two of the most luxurious brands in fashion: ChanelandLouis Vuitton. Resortwear is that relatively new branch of fashion production which really allows designer to express their creativity without constraint: it’s not winter or fall, nor summer or spring, it’s just…resort! So you can present flowy chiffon dresses, very ‘short’ shorts and pair them with quilted coats and fur - well, this happens in S/S and F/W as well, to tell the truth…
But what’s exciting about Cruise, now, is that designers are always looking for new places to get inspired by, places where they are possibly going to set their runway show and gather dozens of celebrities and socialites - Cruise presentations are getting bigger and bigger, they are definitely the hottest social events in fashion right now. That’s why - news of the week! - London, which is always ahead in fashion and proves to be the most forward-thinking of the fashion capitals - in my opinion, much more than Paris, I’m sorry to say - is going to host a new fashion week: London Pre-Collections, which is going to be held in the UK capital from June 15 to 17. Don’t know if it’s a very interesting or very stupid idea, I definitely appreciate the fact that London has taken the first step in this direction, but on the other hand I really do think this is not going to work for very obvious reasons: the fact people are actually interested in Cruise collections because of the big events they represent, and much of this allure is due to their often exotic and unique locations; and this leads to the fact that brands choose to set their runway shows far away from the fashion masses because this is their chance to host an event which is specific to their brand, an event which is not going to be overshadowed by other brands showing their collections on the same days or in the same place. A fashion week for pre-collections would mean the end of all this: shorter runway shows, a busy schedule, many brands showing on the same days and in the same location, less visibility for each brand.
But getting back to our two pioneers of this season’s Cruise collections, let’s start with Chanel, showing its Resortwear 2016 inSeoul, South Korea. Lagerfeld’s endless creativity was definitely inspired by Asia in this collection where colours splashed and popped from every look, with geometrical patterns, lines reminding of Missoni signature textiles, pure Chanel-like jackets and straight silhouettes, with heightened waist recalling Asian traditional dresses in a cool and modern atmosphere. Loved the presence of menswear spread throughout the collection.
LV Cruise 2016 collection was less romantic, both in location - Palm Springs, California - and aesthetic; this doesn’t mean it wasn’t effective. I immediately fell in love with the mix of boho chic and edgy biker-like vibe coming from the leather belts on chiffon chain-printed maxi-dresses, or the Renaissance-inspired long-sleeved gowns - very Valentino - with black contrasting details, walking down the runway followed by biker jackets and paired to ‘punkish’ boots. It was strong, it was bold, it was meant to satisfy different tastes.
You know fashion is all about change, and this also includes changes inside brands. It’s really fresh news that Courrègesappointed two new creative directors: Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, from Coperni Femme. The duo is going to start their work this coming week, and are really excited to present their first collection with the French brand for Spring 2016. Congrats to the two cute boys, I don’t really know their work if I have to be honest, but I’ll surely keep an eye on Courrèges next season.
And a celebrity has recently started her own website selling designs inspired by ‘the American South’. Yes, she’s Reese Witherspoon and she’s ADORABLE, she’s always one of my favourites on the red carpets so basically, I totally trust her and I know she’s going to sell very cute things on Draper James, the website named after her parents’ names. Is it polka dots, vichy checks and florals what I see in the short video I posted above? No surprise the website already sold out many items on the very day of opening, on May 6. She’s just too cute to resist whatever she does.
But the most exciting news for me in fashion - apart from worst dressed at red carpet events and collections at fashion weeks - is definitely when some brands come out announcing a new capsule or line. And this week we had not one but THREE new collections! Lucky week!
First of all, Dior Joaillerie released its new Rose des Vents fine jewellery line, inspired by the ‘wind rose’, with very delicate lines. Only bracelets and necklaces are sold in the collection spotting medallions where the ‘star’ patterned is declined in different versions with a wide range of colourful precious stones.
More about fun and laughing - which is becoming a very attractive tool for fashion brands - is the new capsule collection by Jimmy Choo in collaboration with the Brazilian artist Rafael Mantesso, discovered by the brand’s creative director Sandra Choi on Instagram. What’s fun about this artist? First of all, he depicts his dog doing hilarious things - at least for an animal - like sipping a Martini while calmly sitting on the sofa. But the thing which made Choi decide for a collaboration was the actual dog’s name: Jimmy Choo. The accessory capsule collection will be available from May 15, during the day in which Jimmy Choo pre-collection 2016 will be revealed. No need to say I love every piece of the capsule.
As last news for this week I decided to talk about a very juicy one: House of Holland is going to release its first menswear collection in London during the next London Collections: MEN. In the photo above you can see a little preview of one of the looks - the sweater is kinda cute, please someone give it to me - and above all I think this is a very smart choice for Henry Holland: not only is menswear getting more and more interesting - with much more choice than in the past - but it’s also becoming more important in commercial terms, as gender crossing has gained strength in the last season and more and more women are stealing from the menswear sections of shopping malls and department stores. This would possibly lead - in 20, 30, 40 years’ time? - to abolish gender differences in stores and have an only huge section both for men and women. Who knows?
