#historical underwear
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ALTA few months ago I drafted a pair of short stays for @somuchbetterthanthat. She’s finally gotten them, so now I can share the process!
The pattern was drafted from a combination of the Mariah Pattie circular method for drafting 17th century stays and the Mistress of Disguise method for Regency short stays.
My goal was to create something with a silhouette that works for an 1830ish French gown my friend wants to make. My goal was to:
1. Sew entirely from the stash
2. Not spend more than a day
3. Make something with a chance of fitting even when I’m making it for someone two countries away and I couldn’t actually fit it in her
All three goals were (sort of) achieved!
I’m so pleased!
You start making your circular pattern à la Mariah Pattie. The upper wider circle is your bust measurement, the smaller inside circle your underbust measurement. The straight lines are the distance between your bust and underbust. (Mariah’s video and my previous post explain how to circle with a pen on a string to get the desired curve)
Then the Short Stay instructions take over, but instead of a square, you put it on your circle. If anyone is interested in the details of this, please ask because I’m planning to make one for myself and I can take step by step pictures then.
I only put boning next to the lacing and one to support the bust, making this quite a simple design. The straps are sewn through with a ribbon so they can be adjusted.
I’d rate this a very good project for people wanting to enjoy regency or Bridgerton underwear or starting on corsetting in general. Fitting is a lot easier than victorian corsets, as there’s no waistline or hips to contend with and everything is adjustable.
Corset made from yellow silk brocade and trimmed with white leather. It dates from around 1770 and was proberably made in Italy.
It forms part of the Fashion Collections of Leicestershire County Council.
This corset is available for study, by appointment, at the Collections Resources Centre in Leicestershire.
For further details please email: [email protected]
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Corset
c.1890-1900
Silk, cotton, probably steel
Sykes, Josephine and Co., London, UK
© National Museums Scotland
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Corset
Dominion Corset Co.
About 1910-1920, 20th century
Cotton coutil
M2009.41.12.1-2
© McCord Museum
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Corset, floral brocaded silk, silk ribbon, elastic.
Date: c. 1905
Country: England
Object Number: 98.37.1
The Museum at FIT
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Dating from1900 this Lightweight busk front corset is made from light brown sateen lined in cotton and over-strapped with fawn sateen. This garment heralds the coming fashion change for corsets to the straight front of the early 1900’s known also as the ‘Health Corset’. It has a single long straight busk as opposed to the then conventional spoon busk. Across the front are double crossed straps for added strength. It is moderately boned with whalebone and split cane supporting the back lacing.
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It’s National Underwear Day—This fashionable woman in the 1860s is wearing a chemise and drawers, a corset was gusseted and boned to give a full bust and hips and small waist, a hoop skirt supported a wide skirt, and several smoothing petticoats would also be added. Are you feeling cooler now?
Mannequin dressed in 1860s underwear including cap, chemise, corset, hoop skirt, drawers, stockings, and boots.
Woman’s corset, 1860s–1870s, United States
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Paniers, circa 1750.
© Foto: Kunstgewerbemuseum der Staatlichen Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
Fotograf/in: Stephan Klonk
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Ironbridge Gorge Museum Trust. A Reproduction Corset from the 1890s made by The Costume Project team.
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C. 1895
This busk front corset is typical of the beautifully designed styles of this period. Made from black lasting lined with white twill it features flexible corded hips and an intricate boning system involving forty two cane strips and four tempered steels down the back lacing. The corset is decorated with sky blue feather stitching. The cane boning allowed decorative stitching to be accomplished by the recently invented embroidery machine, and a skilled operative could safely pierce the cane strips without needle damage. The corset has a waist measurement of 22".
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1820s cotton corset
From the collection of Anton Priymak, St. Petersburg, Russia.
Find out more about this collection on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/Antique-corsets-crinolines-bustles-263119877039084/?ref=hl
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Corset of silk moire, trimmed with lace and embroidered with silk thread, 1854-1855.
From the collection of Anton Priymak, St. Petersburg, Russia.
Find out more about this collection on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/Antique-corsets-crinolines-bustles-263119877039084/?ref=hl
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Light blue silk corset with flossing, 1870-1885.
Accession number: 2013.616
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
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The Finished Piece
As part of Click; Connect; Curate; Create we commissioned Historical Costume researcher and lecturer, Hannah Wroe to create twelve different corsets based on the original 1890s corset pattern that is included in the corset box currently on sale.
These pictures show the first corset of twelve created by Hannah and shows what the finished product should look like if you follow the ‘How-to’ guide, which you can download here. The How-to guide provides step-by-step guidance on how to make your own Symington corset using the 1890s Symington corset pattern
Each month we will show you more corsets that have been created using the 1890s corset pattern as the basis along with the inspiration behind their creation.
If you make your own Symington corset based on this pattern or the others that are available on Image Leicestershire, do share your progress with us!
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