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Thayaht. Un Futurista Eccentrico
Sculture, Progetti, Memorie
testi critici di Daniela Fonti, Carla Cerutti ed un contributo di Elisabetta Seeber
Manfredi Edizioni, Cesena 2017; cartonato, pp. 216, ill. b/n e col.
Roma, Galleria Russo, 9 febbraio - 2 marzo 2017.
euro 30,00
Thayat, al secolo Ernesto Michahelles, è stato un artista eclettico ed innovatore, uno sperimentatore antesignano di nuove sensibilità artistiche. La mostra dal titolo “Thayaht, un futurista eccentrico. Sculture, progetti, memorie”, ospitata alla Galleria Russo di Roma, è un omaggio a questo importante esponente del movimento futurista.
Presentata in anteprima ad ArteFiera Bologna dal 27 al 30 gennaio 2017, l’esposizione testimonia la ricchezza poliedrica dell’itinerario creativo di questo “artista globale”, che si muove tra gusto Decó e avanguardia futurista, grazie alla presenza di circa duecento opere tra sculture, disegni e dipinti che vanno dal 1913 al 1940.
In particolare sarà possibile ammirare in mostra il disegno a inchiostro e acquerello su carta che riproduce la “tuta”, inventata da Thayaht nel 1919 insieme al fratello Ruggero Alfredo Michahelles, in arte Ram, ispirandosi ai concetti di funzionalità espressi da Balla. La tuta, ideata come modello a T, a linee rette, in canapa colorata o cotone grezzo, era concepita come abito universale tout-court, destinata a tutti senza distinzioni sociali ed è l’emblema del percorso artistico di Thayaht improntato a collegare sempre estetica e funzione, eleganza ed economia.
L’esposizione ospita anche alcune delle sue più celebri sculture, come la Bautta, il Violinista, la Sentinella, il Flautista, il Tennista, i Pesci, insieme allo scenografico Tuffo, realizzato per la Biennale di Venezia del 1932.
La mostra, che nella varietà di opere esposte ricostruisce la personalità eccentrica e complessa di Thayaht, è corredata da un catalogo a colori edito da Manfredi Edizioni (Cesena) con testi critici di Daniela Fonti, Carla Cerutti ed un contributo di Elisabetta Seeber.
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Gio Ponti. L'Infinito Blu
Ceramica Francesco De Maio
A cura di Aldo Colonetti e di Patrizia Famiglietti con la collaborazione di Salvatore Licitra. Testi di Gillo Dorfles, Gianni De Maio, Fulvio Irace, Fabrizio Mautone e Lisa Licitra Ponti.
edizioni Paguro, Mercato San Severino 2017 ,288 pagine
euro 30,00
Gio Ponti: L'Infinito Blu fatto di disegni e colori che racchiusero nel 1960 e racchiudono ancora oggi l’essenza del magico scenario di Sorrento dove il cielo e il mare, in perfetto equilibrio, creano un’armonia senza pari. Il libro è come uno scrigno che conserva quell’attimo. Custode delle sensazioni e delle emozioni che Gio Ponti annotò sulla tela della sua anima. Fotografie inedite che lo ritraggono come un sorta di regista “felliniano”, mentre coordina in fabbrica le fasi di produzione, schizzi veloci per cogliere una creatività fuggente, tavole disegnate a mano per carpire le forme, acquerelli per tracciare i primi colori, 33 maioliche per rendere reale ciò che aveva creato. Forme in equilibrio, pieni, vuoti, dinamismi e cromatismi. Fotogrammi eterni raccontati in una geometria perfetta con curve, semicerchi e linee che rivelano fiori, lune, foglie che volteggiano per creare infinite combinazioni. Un tuffo nell'azzurro del cielo e nel blu del mare de l’Infinito Blu di Gio Ponti.
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Louise Nevelson I collage
a cura di Bruno Corà
Skira , Milano 2016, 104 pagine , 94 Illustrazioni a colori
Fondazione Marconi, Milano
12 maggio – 22 luglio 2016
euro 28,00
Tornare a riflettere sull’opera di Louise Nevelson significa impegnare il pensiero su diversi fronti; l’artista infatti è di quelle che consentono di prendere lentamente coscienza di aspetti relativi al destino individuale, al caso, alla tenacia delle ambizioni, all’imprevedibile fluire degli eventi, alle scelte difficili, all’amore per un’idea non separabile dall’amore per sé, alla condizione femminile di oggi e di ieri, alla salute fisica, e psichica, agli affetti personali, agli incontri determinanti per quanto imprevisti, alle tradizioni proprie e altrui, all’arte di saper governare tutto ciò e ancora più tra molte avversità e ancor prima della superficie di una tela, del volume di pochi oggetti recuperati dall’abbandono o dell’impiego di un colore.
Non si esaurisce infatti, anzi cresce con la frequentazione delle sue opere, l’interesse per questa artista che mentre non si fa scrupolo di dichiarare la sua condizione di donna, sottoposta a tutte le difficoltà e i disagi attraversati e prevedibili, ne rivendica lo stato di sensibilità e di diversità in senso identitario e di potenzialità artistica.
Un’osservazione dell’attività della Nevelson, dedicata in particolare alla tecnica del collage, rivela e sottolinea i principi seguiti nel regolare l’impaginazione degli elementi depositati sui supporti e l’attitudine congeniale ma anche fortemente esercitata dell’“aver cura” dei rapporti morfologici, cromatici e poetici, già conquistati nel lungo tirocinio con la scultura e ora portati al grado della felicità spontanea del gesto compositivo nel collage.
Bruno Corà
A distanza di 43 anni dalla prima esposizione di Louise Nevelson a Milano, questa monografia che accompagna la mostra alla Fondazione Marconi presenta una selezione di collage realizzati dell’artista a partire dal 1955 fino agli ultimi anni Ottanta.
Protagonista del rinnovamento della scultura nel XX secolo e delle sue trasformazioni, Louise Nevelson diceva parlando di sé e del suo lavoro: “Adoro mettere insieme le cose”.
Figura emblematica dell’arte nel Novecento, Louise Nevelson, si è distinta nel panorama artistico internazionale per la sua ricerca di un linguaggio universale.
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Grace
The American Vogue Years
Grace Coddington
Phaidon Press, London 2016, 408 pages
euro 165,00
The second and final volume of the collected best work of Vogue editor and international fashion icon Grace Coddington
This handsome slipcased edition showcases work of the last fifteen years by legendary Vogue editor Grace Coddington. The book celebrates seventeen of the master photographers with whom Coddington has collaborated - including Steven Meisel, Annie Leibovitz, Craig McDean, David Sims, Mario Testino, and Marcus Piggot and Mert Alas - in a sumptuous compilation of Coddington’s most beloved fashion stories.
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Tutti Frutti
Twelve Colored Pencils
18.7 × 5.7 CM)
12 DOUBLE-SIDED PENCILS, 6 COLORS, IN A SHRINK-WRAPPED BOX
Princeton Architectural Press, Princeton 2015
euro 16,00
Inspired by classic Italian packaging and stationery, celebrated designer Louise Fili brings her pencil collection into full color. This fun and stylish set, a companion to Fili’s Perfetto Pencils, contains twelve double-sided pencils in six tutti frutti shades, ideal for drawing or writing.
Louise Fili is director of Fili Design, a member of the Art Directors Club Hall of Fame, and the author of bestselling Elegantissima and Grafica della Strada
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Perfetto Pencils
(5.7 × 18.7 CM)
12 DOUBLE-SIDED PENCILS, BOXED
Princeton Architectural Press, Princeton 2014
euro 16,00
This pack includes twelve double-sided, red and graphite pencils that are perfect for drawing, editing or grading pesky homework.
Legendary designer Louise Fili brings her love of vintage packaging and all things Italian to this collection of beautiful pencils. Housed in a sturdy lidded case, Perfetto Pencils features twelve double-sided, two-color pencils that showcase Fili’s unique ability to capture the bygone elegance of our design heritage.
We love our collection of 1930s Italian pencil boxes. Our most preferred are the two-color, double-sided pencils, commonly in red and blue, for teachers to correct homework. (“Errore lieve, segno rosso; errore grave, segno blu”: red for a minor infringement, blue for a serious offense.) When Princeton Architectural Press invited us to come up with a line of gift products, the two-tone pencils seemed perfect—thus the name. Steering clear of blue, our least favorite color, we opted for our signature red and black. No eraser, by the way. Who makes errori? Buy
Louise Fili is director of Fili Design, a member of the Art Directors Club Hall of Fame, and the author of bestselling Elegantissima and Grafica della Strada
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agnès b. styliste
byagnès b.
Text by Florence Ben Sadoun
Abrams Books , New York 2017, 288 pages, 250 color and black-and-white photographs
euro 43,50
Since opening her first shop in Paris in 1975, agnès b. has been dedicated to creating timeless designs. Snap cardigans, striped T-shirts, strapless dresses, mini skirts, leather pants—each of her unforgettable pieces mixes classical influences with street style. This richly illustrated clothbound book explores her signature approach to design, the history of the brand, and her continuing influence, which extends beyond fashion to the worlds of art, film, publishing, and music. Presenting design sketches, press clippings, photographs by agnès b., and the work of photographers such as Peter Lindbergh, Dominique Issermann, Ellen von Unwerth, Bruce Weber, Gilles Bensimon, and Jean-Baptiste Mondino, agnès b.: l'histoire celebrates the complexity and creativity of the agnès b. universe.
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Christian Lacroix Voyage Travel Journal
Flocked journal with 120 ruled pages
Featuring 6 pop-up pages & 6 stickers
Divided into 6 sections adorned with unique illustrations
Beautifully decorated hardback cover
Old world map printed on inside covers
Black & white chevron stripe place keeping ribbon
Gilded page edges
Christian Lacroix hot stamped gold band wrap around
euro 49,00
Christian Lacroix, fashion designer and master couturier known for his unique pattern mixing and inspiring designs has now brought his fanciful vibrant sketches to a line of paper products adorned with his handiwork.
The Voyage Travel Journal features a flocked hardbound cover and 96 ruled ivory pages. A book with multiple uses: travel journal, diary and journal. Cover engraving with the Roman ruins of Arles celebrates six great cities: Paris, Madrid, London, Tokyo, Arles, and New York with each city name in gold or silver hot stamp. Four end papers with ornate world maps. Decorative stickers evoke the character of each city. Paper engineering and pop-up technology bring each city to life: Arles, London, Madrid, Paris, New York and Tokyo. Black and white striped chevron ribbon marker. Gilded page edges.
Paris features a pop-up Notre Dame and a floating balloon.
Madrid displays flamenco dancers on a swing.
London has a pin-up Queen Victoria & Prince Albert changes his trousers.
Arles features a beautiful pop-up rose and theatrical vignettes.
New York has two views of the old city.
Tokyo has removable stickers of a geisha, crane and ‘TOKYO’.
There are also further stickers included at the back for you to decorate pages as you wish. With a beautifully illustrated front and back hardcover, and old world map on the inside covers this journal really is stunning to behold. As extravagant & opulent as the designer himself this book also features gilded page edges and a black & white chevron stripe place keeping ribbon, perfect for use as a travel book, journal or notebook.
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Plant: Exploring the Botanical World
Conceived and edited by Phaidon editors
Phaidon Press, London 2016 , 352 pages
euro 49,95
The ultimate gift for gardeners and art-lovers, featuring 300 of the most beautiful and pioneering botanical images ever
Following in the footsteps of the international bestseller Map: Exploring the World, this fresh and visually stunning survey celebrates the extraordinary beauty and diversity of plants. It combines photographs and cutting-edge micrograph scans with watercolours, drawings, and prints to bring this universally popular and captivating subject vividly to life. Carefully selected by an international panel of experts and arranged in a uniquely structured sequence to highlight thought-provoking contrasts and similarities, this stunning compilation of botanically themed images includes iconic work by celebrated artists, photographers, scientists, and botanical illustrators, as well as rare and previously unpublished images.
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1920s Jazz Age Fashion
Martin Pel
Unicorn Press, London 2016, 160 pages , 150 color plates
euro 39,00
Few eras are so clearly associated with fashion as the Jazz Age. Clean, slim lines; elegance grounded in simplicity rather than ornament; and styles designed for the active lives of the men and women who wore them—nearly a century later, the styles of the era still thrill us.
This book, accompanying an exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum, London, both celebrates Jazz Age fashion and helps us understand its context. While presenting beautiful images of classic works by such designers as Chanel, Patou, Lucile, Lanvin, Vionnet, Hartnell, and Molynuex, worn by stars and stunners like Clara Bow and Louise Brooks, it also shows us how the era’s fashion developed. Martin Pel traces the effects of the end of World War I, the rise of America, rapid changes in the lives and expectations of women, and technological breakthroughs like the introduction of Rayon and zippers. All played a part in the creation of an aesthetic that couldn’t have been farther from the buttoned-down, bustled-up clothing of the preceding generation.
A testament to an era that marked the birth of the modern, and whose influence is still felt today, Jazz Age Fashion is an unforgettable document of an unforgettable age.
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Fashion Altitude
Mode et montagne du 18e siècle à nos jours
Glénat, Grenoble 2016 ,144 pages
euro 35,00
Doudoune, Moon Boot, pull rouge et pull jacquard, fuseau, fourrure polaire et bottes à poils… Uniforme de chasseur alpin, tenue de moniteur de ski, look de snowboarder… Tant d’éléments du vestiaire des loisirs de montagne se sont installés dans notre imaginaire comme dans notre garde-robe !
Comment les vêtements destinés à la fréquentation de la neige et des cimes sont-ils nés ? Comment leur aspect, leur fabrication,leurs codes ont-ils évolué ?
À la fin du xixe siècle, les convenances dictaient le code vestimentaire davantage que le confort et la protection contre les éléments. Et la pratique des sports de montagne ne se concevait pas sans élégance. Longues vestes blanches pour les femmes et paletots aux couleurs vives pour les hommes.
Au fil du temps, avec la démocratisation du tourisme en montagne et l’industrialisation de la confection, à force d’inventivité, on a cessé de s’habiller et on s’est équipé. Puis, les vêtements de sport étant devenus chauds, techniques, légers et performants, l’esthétique et la mode ont repris le dessus.
Les lignes et les matières nées sur les pentes ont conquis la vie quotidienne urbaine ; elles se remarquent jusque dans les défilés des créateurs. Moncler, Fusalp, Vuarnet sont installés rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, dans le Marais ou au Japon. Rossignol Apparel participe à la fashion week de Milan et prône le « chic » à la montagne ». Jean-Charles de Castelbajac « habille » des téléphériques, Chanel estampille des skis, et des carrés Hermès continuent d’illustrer les « joies de la montagne ».
Au moment où l’inspiration vintage souffle sur les collections de vêtements de sport, cette histoire très documentée de la Fashion Altitude séduira les fans de mode comme les dingues de sport.
Ce livre accompagne une exposition de la Fondation Glénat au couvent Sainte-Cécile, à Grenoble, de novembre 2016 à février 2017.
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François Nars
Written by François Nars
Rizzoli, New York 2016, 434 pages
euro 99,50
An invitation into the beautiful and inspiring world of François Nars—makeup artist, photographer, and iconoclast—through an exclusive look at his editorial contributions for leading fashion magazines, personal photography projects, and the groundbreaking vision behind NARS Cosmetics. François Nars, the influential French makeup artist and founder of the luxe makeup brand NARS Cosmetics, has continually created new standards of beauty through his bold artistry and unique aesthetic vision for over thirty years. After moving to New York from Paris in 1984, Nars was destined to join the ranks of the most esteemed image makers in the world. He did just that by lending his cutting-edge makeup techniques to high-fashion runway shows, as well as photographing editorial stories for top fashion magazines. Early on in his career, Nars worked with legendary photographers, designers, stylists, and editors, but in 1994, he followed his passion and desire to share his boldly glamorous, rule-breaking aesthetic with the launch of NARS Cosmetics. Curated by Nars himself, François Nars presents a prismatic assemblage of over 500 photographs celebrating his vision, inspirations, and creative process. This luxurious volume provides unique access into the imaginative life of Nars through intimate reflections by his close friends and collaborators, such as Naomi Campbell, Steven Klein, Odile Gilbert, Charlotte Rampling, Marc Jacobs, and Tilda Swinton; his personal photography projects; and striking advertising campaigns for NARS Cosmetics shot by Nars himself. From the palette to the product name to the campaign image itself, Nars continues to reinvent the definition of modern beauty through a revolutionary approach to makeup.
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Unfolding
Contemporary Indian Textiles
Maggie Baxter
Niyogi Books, New Delhi 2015,
euro 85,50
‘Unfolding’ is a timely and vital examination of how the rich and diverse textile craft traditions of India have been adopted/adapted in the 21st century. The author looks at 'new interpretations made within the current cultural landscape by designers who dare to take steps into the unknown’. Traditional techniques and motifs are reworked in atypical, up-to-date ways, creating a fresh new visual language that is still identifiably Indian.
Separate chapters examine the work of 23 designers and artists in terms of craft revival, surface treatment, texture, minimalism and narrative. Raw Mango, for example, glories in the drenched colour of the cones of pure colour pigments found in Indian markets creating saris of extreme colour that are both minimalist and overpoweringly intense, while bai lou reposition the delicate motifs of Bengali jamdani, scaling them up into bold, oversized, geometric shapes. In Kutch, architect and designer Kirit Dave deconstructed the rigidly arithmetic system of ikat into deliberate fracture and dissonance, whereas for Ravage disharmony is achieved by piercing, fraying and embellishing fabrics to make highly theatrical garments that simultaneously allude to bazaar kitsch and Punk subculture. Popular culture is celebrated with Play Clan’s madcap digital prints and hand embroideries and Goodearth’s unashamedly romantic delving into Bollywood, history and legends.
The last chapter looks at the small but growing number of Indian artists such as Mithu Sen, Manisha Parekh and Parul Thacker for whom fibre and fabric are an integral part of their studio and gallery practice.
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Beautiful People of the Café Society
Scrapbooks by the Baron De Cabrol
Thierry Coudert
Flammarion , Paris 2016, 262 pages
euro 116,00
The glamorous aristocrats Daisy and Fred de Cabrol formed one of the most prominent twentieth-century high society couples on the international scene. Leading members of the exclusive café society, they socialized with the biggest names in the haut monde―from the Maharani of Kapurthala, to Queen Amelia of Portugal, to their close friends the Windsors. The couple attended every lavish ball of the era and was sure to catch the eye of fashion photographers such as Cecil Beaton at sumptuous parties thrown by Etienne de Beaumont or Marie-Laure Venice. The Winter Ball organized by the Baronne de Cabrol for her charity L’Essor, held at the Palais des Glaces in Paris, remains one of the most memorable and spectacular of the epoch. Reproducing pages from the scrapbooks crafted with beauty and wit by the Baron de Cabrol between 1938 and the 1960s, this volume reveals the privileged and extravagant world of the café society. Through collages, watercolors, and previously unpublished archival documents, readers will discover the exceptional journey of a couple who were at once actors and observers in a golden age of elegance and art.
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