#retrotech
Repairs
I had picked up a VLB Diamond Stealth 64 video card at Computer Reset, so obviously I needed a VLB motherboard to put it to good use.
I picked up 5 bad VLB motherboards.
The first three I knew were not likely to work. They were rare early Pentium boards with both PCI and VLB, but all had the same Varta battery destruction. The other two were generic 486 boards that looked to be in great shape. Unfortunately, both had some unseen damage such that they would only run if flexed in just the right manner.
So I made the trek out to Computer Reset again.
I found one good-looking VLB board, an Asus this time. Unfortunately, no POST. It wouldn’t even get far enough to output a failure code on my POST card. I spent far too much time trying to get any sign of life out of it …
… before finally turning it over and realizing it had some pretty significant scrapes on the underside.
See, I had pulled it out of a large box of other boards. Who knows how long they had been there and where they had been before or who had dug through them already. At some point, something scraped across the back of this board and hurt it pretty badly.
I’ve never done any significant rework on a board like this, but it’s never too late to learn. I started by marking the scratches with a marker, then out came the scalpel and the continuity probes.
The first few wires were easy — short traces between the DIP sockets for cache RAM. Their endpoints were easy to see, and the pins were easy to solder to.
The others were a bit harder. First thing I had to do was scratch off some of the solder mask on either side of the scrape to confirm if continuity had indeed been broken. The traces were too close together for me to solder short bridge wires right across the gap, so I had to follow them back to vias or pins on either end.
When there that many traces that close together, they can be hard to follow. I like to take a fine-tip marker and draw a line following the trace all the way to the end. After I’ve soldered a wire in place, a little rubbing alcohol cleans up the marker, and I can move on to the next.
In this case, I was lucky that only a handful of traces were significantly broken. A few small scratches I was able to bridge with just solder, patching several nearby with a drag solder technique similar to that used for surface mount ICs.
Once I was done patching, I covered any areas with remove solder mask with clear nail polish. I tried dabbing a bit of hot glue on the ends of the wires to help them stay in place, but it didn’t really work well. Next time I’ll try something different (more nail polish has been recommended to me by some far more experienced techs).
In the end, the repair was successful. I was able to get it to boot right up after patching those few traces, and didn’t even have to break out the soldering iron a second time. I am quite pleased with how this turned out.
I’ve got some other odds and ends picked up from Computer Reset that should turn this into a nice machine. I’ve got it running currently with a 66MHz Intel 486DX2, 96MB RAM, the Diamond Stealth 64 VLB video card, and an EtherLink III. Somewhere I know I’ve got a SoundBlaster to round it out.
I’ve also got both an Intel and an AMD 100MHz DX4 that I would love to put in this machine. I’m interested to see if my patchwork will hold up to running the board at full speed.
For now though, Wolfenstein.
Doing part test fits getting ready to start wiring a new homebrew project.