“The leaves of trees were glistening, and every twig was dripping; the grass was grey with cold dew. Everything was still, and far-away noises seemed near and clear”
Baby clothes: What a perfectly cute way to make use of small pieces of leftover fabric!
This is the second addition to my little boy’s Viking wardrobe. While the red tunic posted about a couple of months ago was made using the fabric left over from one of my apron dresses, this blue one is made of fabric from one of his father’s tunics.
“Velkomin sértu, góa mín, og gakktu í bæinn; vertu ekki úti í vindinum vorlangan daginn”
According to the Old Icelandic calendar have just left behind the month of Þorri, and today we enter the month of Góa. Being among the last winter months, it might have been a difficult time with food supplies running low, but also a time filled with hope for an early and mild spring. This is illustrated by Icelandic proverbs such as "að þreyja þorrann og góuna” (to endure Þorri and Góa, that is, to overcome difficult times). Several aspects of the stories and traditions related to Góa are associated with hopes of fertility and growth.
Icelandic folktales describe how this month is the month of women, and that it should be greeted by the housewife on the farm. On this first day of Góa she should rise early and step outside before getting dressed, walk thrice around the farm, and speak the words from the top of this post. Let me translate them to English:
“Welcome, my dear Góa, and come on inside; don’t stay out in the wind, on this long day of spring.”
My annual Viking & Medieval market calendar is up now at Valkyrja.com (link in profile)
I honestly didn’t think I would be able to make it this year, since I have a 2-month-old baby on my arm these days, but here it is! ^^ Please feel free to bookmark and share!
Will you be attending any markets this year, and which ones?
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that our little boy will be introduced to the Viking reenactment life… And, at the age of one month, his first pieces of Viking clothing and gear are already in place!
The first garment I’ve sewn for him is this red tunic.
Check out my latest blog post at Valkyrja.com (link in bio)
My highest wish for New Year’s is a quiet celebration at home with my new little family. ❤️
I have spent the last few days in hospital due to a nasty infection, and while I love and admire the Norwegian health care system I must say I’m officially tired of spending time surrounded by naked concrete walls, beeping sounds and nightly disturbances by others than my newborn baby. My expectations that the “fourth trimester” was supposed to be tough led me to walk around with an untreated infection for weeks rather than seeking treatment, and I learned the hard way that gritting your teeth is not necessarily the best way to cope in all cases… I am recovering well now and it looks like I may be discharged tomorrow, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed to be home on this side of the new year!
• The drop spindle • Part 6/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE
Among the other identifiable objects in the grave were a loom weight and a spindle whorl both made of soapstone. These may refer to the Spurkeland woman’s role as a weaver in the household.
The production of fine clothes was associated with high status during the Viking Age, and could be a good source of income. The housewife would be responsible for the textile production, either as a weaver herself or a leader of weavers in the household.
The spindle whorl was unornamented and round with flat parallel sides. Neil from @NiddyNoddyUK was kind to make me this one to order, as well as a spindle stick and distaff to go with it (the latter were not found in this grave but are in Oseberg style).
• The shawl and trefoil fibula • Part 5/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE
The third garment identified in the grave was an outer layer—believed to have been a shawl or cloak closed with a bronze trefoil brooch at the neck.
The brooch was decorated with three masks facing out toward each lobe with stylized bodies (Borre-style, type P97). I’ve used my trefoil brooch from @klesarven here, not the same design but also a Norwegian finding decorated with masks.
Five textile fragments were found in relation to the brooch. The weave was unclear, but they were wool, and there was blue dye!
The shape of the shawl/cloak is unknown, so I went for a simple “triangular” style shawl in thick wool, with blanket stitch along the edges to prevent fraying. The shawl is really a square piece where one corner is folded down and worn toward the back of the neck. This provides a nice shape when draped over the shoulders and fastened at the front, a shape that mimics the profile commonly seen in Valkyrie pendants. ✨
One of the two blue/brown six-strand braids running down along the back of the apron dress (based on the Hedeby/Haithabu find), and the linen shoulder straps made by folding fabric fourfold and closing it with whip stitch.
The shoulder straps/loops on apron dresses seem to have usually been made of linen, also when the remainder of the dress is made of wool.
This is for example seen in the rich Birka material where vast majority of findings of such loops were linen, even though plant fibres usually decompose rapidly under Scandinavian preservation conditions.
This may be surprising to some, since we more often see wool loops on apron dresses among historical reenactors (including myself)!
Why do you think that is? Do you find it prettier when the shoulder straps and dress are identical in color and material?
That has been the case for my part. But after having made and worn these, I can definitely get used to this! Linen straps are also more durable and less stretchy, so they do their job well holding the heavy brooches in place.
• The blue aprondress • Part 4/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE
The second garment in the grave was identified as an apron dress.
Underneath the tortoise brooches, there were pieces of both the upper and lower looped straps used to suspend the dress over the shoulders. These were made of plant fibre, specifically linen.
Apart from these straps, the findings do not reveal more details about the design of the apron dress. I therefore based my interpretation on the largest and best-preserved existing find, namely the Hedeby/Haithabu fragment, with a closed and fitted design flaring from the hips and six-strand braids running down along the back.
I used blue wool fabric in a plain tabby weave, handsewn with wool thread. This seemed like the most plausible alternative based on previous findings as well as those wool fragments that were indeed found in the grave (more about that in part 5/6)!
• Linen underdress • Part 3/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE
Findings of textile remains from the Viking Age are rare. Those that do survive have often been in direct contact with metal objects (protected by metal corrosion). Their location relative to various metal objects such as brooches, buttons or tools may provide clues about the type of garment, and analyses of thread-count and any dyes can indicate its quality and value.
Interpreting textile findings therefore requires a lot of just that: interpretation. That was also the case for this grave finding. According to textile conservator Lukešová, the small fragments found in the grave likely stem from three different garments.
The first was a linen undergarment, based on fragments of linen found under the tortoise brooches that do not stem from the apron dress. My reconstruction is a handsewn serk in undyed plain weave linen, and has a rounded neckline. While I usually sew serks with keyhole necklines, these were uncommon in findings here from West Norway. This is also supported by the fact that was apparently no brooch or fibula attached to this undergarment.
The findings provide little or no clue about the shape of the remainder of the serk, but I made square underarm gussets for better fit and movement (based on e.g. Skjoldehamn and Birka finds), long sleeves, a single panel for both front and back (no shoulder seam) and two side gores. This is basically a simple and straightforward serk design, made to form a practical and comfortable undergarment without more guesswork than necessary!
• The beads • Part 2/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE
Two dozen beads were found in the area around the brooches. One was a large discoid shaped amber bead measuring 22.6mm, and the remaining 23 were made of glass.
Originally, these beads had production sites spread across large geographical distances. For example, the segmented beads in blue and golden are believed to come from the Byzantine territory in the southeast, while the simple opaque ones may have been Scandinavian.
I did not have the beads made to order for this project, but simply tried to collect similar ones from brilliant vendors of handmade beads such as the ones tagged above. But recreating the bead row was challenging since all markets in my area were cancelled this summer, and especially because this grave find has not been recreated previously. The patterns and proportions of the individual beads are not accurate in all cases either. I aim to keep improving this as society and historical markets open up again!
Thanks to Søren Diinhoff at the University Museum of Bergen for access to the relevant reports as well as permission to use the second photo above, showing some of the original beads in situ.
• The brooches • Part 1/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE ✨ The bronze tortoise brooches found in the grave were double shelled. The open-work top shells were gold-plated and richly ornamented, with a smooth inner shell beneath. They are within type R652/654 (Rygh), categorized as P51 in Petersen’s classification of tortoise brooches.
This is actually the most common brooch design from the Viking Age, with findings spread from Norway (with about 50 findings in my county alone) to Denmark, Sweden, Iceland, the British Isles, Russia…
That makes you think, doesn’t it? I find it so interesting how these fashion designs managed to find their way to local farmsteads up hill and down dale, in a time where travel was done by foot, horse and ship.
Some years ago, a friend of mine found a tortoise brooch on a farm here on the west coast of Norway, which led to archaeological excavations that revealed a woman’s grave from the early 900s. The finding remained unpublished and has not been recreated until now. I was up for the challenge. How often do you come across such a relevant finding so close to home?
I’ve been working on this project for the past months, and will be sharing it with you here in the days to come! You will find the whole story and all photos on my blog Valkyrja.com (link in profile) ✨
As you may know I am half Icelandic, but my Norwegian half is actually from the north of Norway (not from Bergen where I live). This photo is from last summer when we went on a roadtrip north to stay in my fathers’ childhood home in Lofoten.
And of course we had to visit the beautiful Lofotr Viking Museum, with it’s large and magnificent longhouse! ✨
This week I started my summer vacation! *happyface*
I normally don’t write much about my “modern life” here, but I am a senior researcher within the field of health psychology, coordinating a large international clinical trial. It’s a lot of fun but also a lot of work! I am very excited about having several weeks off, to relax and enjoy my hobbies and projects I’ll also be travelling to Iceland to finally visit my family there again
Mjødurt, or meadowsweet, the vanilla of the north! It seems to be growing everywhere now, and it brings a lovely smell with it into the house.
Historically it has been used as a strewing herb, scattered over the floors of the house for its pleasant smell and mild antibacterial properties, as well as to add flavor to vinegar, wine, beer and mead…
It also has many medicinal traits. Supposedly, a Medieval advice to clear a stuffy nose was to hold a piece of wool dipped in meadowsweet juice toward your nostrils!
Interestingly, the organic compound “salicylic acid” was isolated from meadowsweet in the 1800s. This is a plant hormone that is part of the plants’ defense against pathogens, and derivatives of salicylic acid are used in anti-inflammatory drugs for headaches and fever today.
What types of food do you usually bring with you to Viking Age or Medieval festivals and markets?
While historical tents don’t get as hot and clammy as modern plastic tents, it can still be a challenge to find food that tastes fresh after a few summer days spent outside…
I usually bring cured meat and cheeses that do not need to be refrigerated, home baked crisp bread wrapped in a linen cloth, and boil eggs that I store in a closed container with cold water. I keep it all in a closed chest in the shade.
Or you can do as my friend Gustav in this photo, and catch food fresh from the sea at dinnertime!
Do you have any reenactor food tips and hacks to share?
Have you seen the newest post on my blog Valkyrja.com? (link in bio) ✨
It’s all about a recent gathering with our little Viking group. I had my camera with me of course, and noone could escape the determination of a blogger who hasn’t had much new to blog about for a year.