#historicalclothing
Still there are so many things
That I have never seen:
In every wood in every spring
There is a different green.
#spring #middleearth #tolkien #wordsmithery #forest #woodlands #nature #vikingcloak #handsewn #historicalclothing #vikingwoman #viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingblog #valkyrie
https://www.instagram.com/p/CdLSG9QN-rc/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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“The leaves of trees were glistening, and every twig was dripping; the grass was grey with cold dew. Everything was still, and far-away noises seemed near and clear”
#middleearth #tolkien #wordsmithery #forest #woodlands #nature #vikingcloak #handsewn #historicalclothing #vikingwoman #viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CcIeHh5Ns8C/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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Baby clothes: What a perfectly cute way to make use of small pieces of leftover fabric!
This is the second addition to my little boy’s Viking wardrobe. While the red tunic posted about a couple of months ago was made using the fabric left over from one of my apron dresses, this blue one is made of fabric from one of his father’s tunics.
New blog post at http://valkyrja.com!
#viking #vikings #vikingage #vikingbaby #babyviking #vikingchild #norse #vikingreenactment #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingtunic #handsewn #historicalclothing #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb2dZ15N2PH/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• Góa •
“Velkomin sértu, góa mín,
og gakktu í bæinn;
vertu ekki úti í vindinum
vorlangan daginn”
According to the Old Icelandic calendar have just left behind the month of Þorri, and today we enter the month of Góa. Being among the last winter months, it might have been a difficult time with food supplies running low, but also a time filled with hope for an early and mild spring. This is illustrated by Icelandic proverbs such as "að þreyja þorrann og góuna” (to endure Þorri and Góa, that is, to overcome difficult times). Several aspects of the stories and traditions related to Góa are associated with hopes of fertility and growth.
Icelandic folktales describe how this month is the month of women, and that it should be greeted by the housewife on the farm. On this first day of Góa she should rise early and step outside before getting dressed, walk thrice around the farm, and speak the words from the top of this post. Let me translate them to English:
“Welcome, my dear Góa,
and come on inside;
don’t stay out in the wind,
on this long day of spring.”
#góa #viking #vikings #norse #norsecalendar #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CaM2whdr8xa/?utm_medium=tumblr
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Bubbling over with creative energy, but too busy these days to do much with it! So here’s a Viking selfie for now… ♀️
#vikingwoman #vikingmother #viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #reddress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CZUcicqr_nv/?utm_medium=tumblr
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Baby turnshoes!
An adorable handmade gift from @larshedning
How cute are they? Pretty damn cute.
#vikingshoes #turnshoes #oseberg #osebergshoes #leatherwork #viking #vikings #vikingage #vikingbaby #babyviking #vikingchild #norse #vikingreenactment #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #handsewn #historicalclothing #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CYqqoGZrQNO/?utm_medium=tumblr
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Handsewn clothes for a little Viking
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that our little boy will be introduced to the Viking reenactment life… And, at the age of one month, his first pieces of Viking clothing and gear are already in place!
The first garment I’ve sewn for him is this red tunic.
Check out my latest blog post at Valkyrja.com (link in bio)
#viking #vikings #vikingage #vikingbaby #babyviking #vikingchild #norse #vikingreenactment #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingtunic #handsewn #historicalclothing #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/valkyrjacom/p/CYpY0XCtlfy/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• Til árs ok friðar •
Best wishes for a good and peaceful year, for growth, health and abundance in the time to come
#tilársokfriðar #yule #vikingwoman #vikingmother #pregnantviking #ninemonths #viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingdress #historicalclothing #reddress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/valkyrjacom/p/CYPrhYQNnhp/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• Móðir •
Styrki þig guðir
og góðar vættir
álfar og dísir
og allt sem lifir
gróður jarðar
og geisli sólar
❤️ New blog post at Valkyrja.com ❤️
#vikingwoman #vikingmother #motherhood #pregnantviking #ninemonths #viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #reddress #yule #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CX1cLMtL5xD/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• Ýlir •
Ýlir ís the first of the two Yule months in the Old Norse calendar. It was also called Frermánuðr (frost month) in some sources. ❤️
Want to read more about the Old Norse months? Check out the blog post I wrote earlier this year: Valkyrja.com/norsecalendar.html
#viking #vikings #norse #norsecalendar #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #reddress #yule #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CWyGcyEt8w_/?utm_medium=tumblr
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♥️ Rauðr smokkr á bringu - gylltir dvergar á öxlum ✨
Have a good Saturday night everyone!
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #reddress #fallvibes #autumnvibes #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CU0SG4gNSRz/?utm_medium=tumblr
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The leaves are starting to turn from green to deep red and gold, and the air is cooler, crisper…
I got a new camera lens for my birthday this month, so I have been out capturing that autumn vibe.
New blog post with photography on my blog Valkyrja.com (link in profile)
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #fallvibes #autumnvibes #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUAu82FtjxL/?utm_medium=tumblr
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…can you feel that?
It’s Friday! ❤️
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CTpWXnStklL/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• The drop spindle •
Part 6/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE
Among the other identifiable objects in the grave were a loom weight and a spindle whorl both made of soapstone. These may refer to the Spurkeland woman’s role as a weaver in the household.
The production of fine clothes was associated with high status during the Viking Age, and could be a good source of income. The housewife would be responsible for the textile production, either as a weaver herself or a leader of weavers in the household.
The spindle whorl was unornamented and round with flat parallel sides. Neil from @NiddyNoddyUK was kind to make me this one to order, as well as a spindle stick and distaff to go with it (the latter were not found in this grave but are in Oseberg style).
Now I just have to learn how to spin properly!
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingtid #reenactment #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #livinghistory #levendehistorie #archaeology #spurkeland #dropspindle #distaff #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #historicalclothing #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CTU7AIZDMc5/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• The shawl and trefoil fibula •
Part 5/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE
The third garment identified in the grave was an outer layer—believed to have been a shawl or cloak closed with a bronze trefoil brooch at the neck.
The brooch was decorated with three masks facing out toward each lobe with stylized bodies (Borre-style, type P97). I’ve used my trefoil brooch from @klesarven here, not the same design but also a Norwegian finding decorated with masks.
Five textile fragments were found in relation to the brooch. The weave was unclear, but they were wool, and there was blue dye!
The shape of the shawl/cloak is unknown, so I went for a simple “triangular” style shawl in thick wool, with blanket stitch along the edges to prevent fraying. The shawl is really a square piece where one corner is folded down and worn toward the back of the neck. This provides a nice shape when draped over the shoulders and fastened at the front, a shape that mimics the profile commonly seen in Valkyrie pendants. ✨
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingtid #reenactment #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #livinghistory #levendehistorie #archaeology #spurkeland #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CTP_ONfLi-8/?utm_medium=tumblr
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Details…
One of the two blue/brown six-strand braids running down along the back of the apron dress (based on the Hedeby/Haithabu find), and the linen shoulder straps made by folding fabric fourfold and closing it with whip stitch.
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingtid #reenactment #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #livinghistory #levendehistorie #archaeology #spurkeland #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CTKTObRDbgZ/?utm_medium=tumblr
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The shoulder straps/loops on apron dresses seem to have usually been made of linen, also when the remainder of the dress is made of wool.
This is for example seen in the rich Birka material where vast majority of findings of such loops were linen, even though plant fibres usually decompose rapidly under Scandinavian preservation conditions.
This may be surprising to some, since we more often see wool loops on apron dresses among historical reenactors (including myself)!
Why do you think that is? Do you find it prettier when the shoulder straps and dress are identical in color and material?
That has been the case for my part. But after having made and worn these, I can definitely get used to this! Linen straps are also more durable and less stretchy, so they do their job well holding the heavy brooches in place.
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingtid #reenactment #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #livinghistory #levendehistorie #archaeology #spurkeland #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CTKGBQOj_Zg/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• The blue aprondress •
Part 4/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE
The second garment in the grave was identified as an apron dress.
Underneath the tortoise brooches, there were pieces of both the upper and lower looped straps used to suspend the dress over the shoulders. These were made of plant fibre, specifically linen.
Apart from these straps, the findings do not reveal more details about the design of the apron dress. I therefore based my interpretation on the largest and best-preserved existing find, namely the Hedeby/Haithabu fragment, with a closed and fitted design flaring from the hips and six-strand braids running down along the back.
I used blue wool fabric in a plain tabby weave, handsewn with wool thread. This seemed like the most plausible alternative based on previous findings as well as those wool fragments that were indeed found in the grave (more about that in part 5/6)!
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingtid #reenactment #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #livinghistory #levendehistorie #archaeology #spurkeland #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CTIfHmgrF6M/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• Linen underdress •
Part 3/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE
Findings of textile remains from the Viking Age are rare. Those that do survive have often been in direct contact with metal objects (protected by metal corrosion). Their location relative to various metal objects such as brooches, buttons or tools may provide clues about the type of garment, and analyses of thread-count and any dyes can indicate its quality and value.
Interpreting textile findings therefore requires a lot of just that: interpretation. That was also the case for this grave finding. According to textile conservator Lukešová, the small fragments found in the grave likely stem from three different garments.
The first was a linen undergarment, based on fragments of linen found under the tortoise brooches that do not stem from the apron dress. My reconstruction is a handsewn serk in undyed plain weave linen, and has a rounded neckline. While I usually sew serks with keyhole necklines, these were uncommon in findings here from West Norway. This is also supported by the fact that was apparently no brooch or fibula attached to this undergarment.
The findings provide little or no clue about the shape of the remainder of the serk, but I made square underarm gussets for better fit and movement (based on e.g. Skjoldehamn and Birka finds), long sleeves, a single panel for both front and back (no shoulder seam) and two side gores. This is basically a simple and straightforward serk design, made to form a practical and comfortable undergarment without more guesswork than necessary!
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingtid #reenactment #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #livinghistory #levendehistorie #archaeology #spurkeland #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CTC3LYDt9qv/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• The brooches •
Part 1/6 of “The woman at Spurkeland”, early 900s CE ✨
The bronze tortoise brooches found in the grave were double shelled. The open-work top shells were gold-plated and richly ornamented, with a smooth inner shell beneath. They are within type R652/654 (Rygh), categorized as P51 in Petersen’s classification of tortoise brooches.
This is actually the most common brooch design from the Viking Age, with findings spread from Norway (with about 50 findings in my county alone) to Denmark, Sweden, Iceland, the British Isles, Russia…
That makes you think, doesn’t it? I find it so interesting how these fashion designs managed to find their way to local farmsteads up hill and down dale, in a time where travel was done by foot, horse and ship.
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingtid #reenactment #vikingreenactment #livinghistory #levendehistorie #archaeology #spurkeland #vikinglife #vikingbling #tortoisebrooches #historicalclothing #historicaljewelry #historicaljewellery #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CS-CpG7Lmsa/?utm_medium=tumblr
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The woman at Spurkeland, early 900s CE
Some years ago, a friend of mine found a tortoise brooch on a farm here on the west coast of Norway, which led to archaeological excavations that revealed a woman’s grave from the early 900s. The finding remained unpublished and has not been recreated until now. I was up for the challenge. How often do you come across such a relevant finding so close to home?
I’ve been working on this project for the past months, and will be sharing it with you here in the days to come! You will find the whole story and all photos on my blog Valkyrja.com (link in profile) ✨
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingtid #reenactment #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #livinghistory #levendehistorie #archaeology #spurkeland #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CS47YwPLh28/?utm_medium=tumblr
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• Lofotr •
As you may know I am half Icelandic, but my Norwegian half is actually from the north of Norway (not from Bergen where I live). This photo is from last summer when we went on a roadtrip north to stay in my fathers’ childhood home in Lofoten.
And of course we had to visit the beautiful Lofotr Viking Museum, with it’s large and magnificent longhouse! ✨
#lofotr #lofoten #longhouse #viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja (at Lofoten, Norway)
https://www.instagram.com/p/CSXSMu2rSXC/?utm_medium=tumblr
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This week I started my summer vacation! *happyface*
I normally don’t write much about my “modern life” here, but I am a senior researcher within the field of health psychology, coordinating a large international clinical trial. It’s a lot of fun but also a lot of work! I am very excited about having several weeks off, to relax and enjoy my hobbies and projects I’ll also be travelling to Iceland to finally visit my family there again
What are you doing this summer? ☀️
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingage #vikingreenactment #vikingreenactor #vikingsofinstagram #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingbling #vikingdress #handsewn #historicalclothing #aprondress #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRiw8TwrxjY/?utm_medium=tumblr
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It’s the weekend! ☀️
Do you have anything fun planned?
(I have no plans at all, and I find it absolutely glorious!)
#viking #vikings #norse #vikingsummer #vikinglife #vikingwoman #vikingdress #vikingbling #historicalclothing #vikingblog #valkyrie #valkyrja
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“I cannot afford your gowns.” I hear this ALL the time. But what really frustrates me is that most of you don’t understand that a bargain is only a bargain if it is quality made. YES! You can have an amazing gown from me for around $800!
I sell mostly on Etsy, with the exception of cast mates who know my work, or some of my followers on Facebook, Tumblr, or Instagram, the majority of my sales go through Etsy.
There are hidden costs the average consumer doesn’t understand. First of all, Etsy takes about 20% or more out of each sale I make. That on top of the listing fees I have to pay, as well as the cost of having an upgraded store, and a website that is separate from my store. All those things add up. I also offer FREE shipping inside the US - - But I did NOT raise my prices to cover that expense. I do deduct it from my taxes as an expense, but the average cost to ship a gown First Class via USPS is about $45 to 50.
Most vendors on Etsy, Ebay, or even vendors at Renfaire buy bulk fabrics and crank out the same gown over, and over, and over ad naseum. However, all of my work is custom couture with MANY hand-sewn elements.
I charge by the piece. That means I charge for EVERY cut piece I physically sew together, and that includes the lining, and piping! If I charged by the hour, just a basic gown would retail for no less than $4,000 to $5,000.
Embroidery affects the cost of my work because it takes MORE time than the actual construction of our gowns, and beading and pearling or hand-tacking down trims takes even longer than embroidery. Again, In’t charge an hourly wage, but I charge by the stitch count of the embroidery pattern and a flat rate for beading and hand work - which usually is merely a pittance of what it should be because I WANT to make my work affordable while still being fairly compensated for my time and labor.
The average basic 16th Century court gown I make only runs about $800 to $900 for labor - - it’s all the embellishment that costs!
So, if you choose a gown with tabs around the bottom of the bodice and/or around the shoulders, or a sleeve that is paned, this is going to drive up my labor fees because we STILL charge by the piece. Those tabs are DETAILED ya’ll! They are piped, and lined and take a lot of labor on my part. But listen … we can customize a gown that is more basic and forego all the bling and STILL offer you something amazing. So don’t let the price of the gowns you see listed scare you! Before you go to another vendor and buy on the cheap, give me a chance!
Let me put it this way: You look at my work and you drool. You then look at the listed price and say, I can’t afford it, so you go to a vendor who is going to offer you a basic cut gown - that may not be an historically accurate style, or they use fabric they purchased in bulk, say a synthetic brocade. The brocade is more than HALF the design aesthetic for these bargain priced gowns! There is much MORE involved in creating a quality-made garment. So, why not choose a more affordable fabric and ask me to make you a basic gown!? Yes, you might pay $400+ more for one my basic gowns, but at least it will be made with my quality standards! - AND you only need a 20% deposit and can split the balance up into 6 payments.
Let’s do the math:
The following link takes you to one of my “basic” gowns.
Here is the cost breakdown of this gown:
Specialized Supplies provided by DFT: $124.03
Embroidery Labor: $200
Gown Construction & Pattern Drafting Fees - $790
Beading Fees: $150
The basic gown, to include the specialized supplies I use for construction, is ONLY $914.03. It’s the embroidery and beading fees that up-ticks the labor costs.
20% Non-refundable deposit would be: $182.80
Balance due: $731.23
If you placed this gown on my six month payment plan your monthly installments would be $121.23.
NOW… that cost doesn’t include fabrics. So keep that in mind, but I can help you bargain shop for good quality textiles. You can peruse some gorgeous brocades and Jacquard fabrics on my Pinterest board. You will need about 8 yards of fabric for the skirt and bodice, 2.5 yards for the forepart, and another 1.5 yards for fitted sleeves.
https://www.pinterest.com/designsfromtime/costume-fabrics-common-supplies/brocades-jacquards/
Here’s another example using a gown made of brocade:
Specialized Supplies provided by DFT: $109.99
Embroidery Labor: $350
Labor & Drafting fees - $740
Beading/Spangle Labor - $150
The basic gown is $849.99! I added piping in a complimentary olive green silk, gold trim which I beaded, and custom embroidered the sleeves and forepart, but you can use a different brocade pattern (such as a diamond shape) for the sleeves and forepart and still stay in budget.
The gowns in my store are priced for “style” and the level of “embellishment.” But if you take the time to read my cost breakdown I provide in each listing you can see the basic labor fees just for the gown construction.
Here is the bottom line:
You CAN use “fabrics” to provide a wow factor rather than the trims and embroidery I use to create a more budget friendly gown. No, they aren’t going to bring the BLING I am famous for, but a basic gown without tabs on the bottom of the bodice made up in a beautiful brocade, with minimal embellishment will allow you to purchase one of our quality made gowns.
If you have a properly constructed over skirt with meticulously placed cartridge pleats, bodices with built in under structure, lining added to overskirt fabrics so that these less expensive brocades “drape” properly, and finish the edges with hand-made piping, not only can we put you in a gown within your budget, BUT offer you a durable quality made gown that is gorgeously styled. The devil is in the details folks! And the details in our work is more than just the sparkly bits. It’s about quality of construction.
You can spend $300 to $400 for one of these “more affordable” gowns and then have to turn around and spend another $300 to $400 when the gown doesn’t hold up to the rigors of reenacting, or you can spend $800 to $900 in labor for one our gowns that will last you a minimum of 5 or 6 years - or more! . Most of the gowns selling for $300 to $400 that I’ve seen won’t last more than 2 seasons - if that - before they start falling apart. How do I know this? Because many of my cast mates bought these bargain priced gowns and they literally fell apart the first time they wore them. The longevity of the gown will be profoundly effected by the fabric you chose, as well as the quality of construction. If properly cared for, our gowns will last many, MANY seasons. If you don’t wad it up and throw it in a suitcase, as I’ve seen some people do with our work, they will retain their beauty and shape for years to come - and THAT my friends is a bargain.
HERE’S THE 411 OF WHAT SETS OUR WORK APART:
- Our Bodices are highly structured.
First of all, my bodices are custom drafted to fit your body. They are cut in a historically accurate pattern - rather than using a commercial pattern in a style that has no historical basis. I use imported products from the UK that aren’t available here in the States.
My bodices are MORE than just two pieces of fabric sewn together. Mine have multiple layers with built-in under structure hand-tailored into them. One layer, is a fusible cotton interlining to stabilize your fashion fabrics to add body. We also add a second layer of a product used to stiffen it (no, I’m not gonna tell ya what we use), PLUS we add an additional layer in front of a product that acts like buckram, which was used in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries to stiffen and add structure. I also add a few stays to keep the point at the bottom from flipping up when you sit. YES - You still have to wear stays with our gown bodices! Anyone who says otherwise doesn’t know what they’re talking about and needs to hit the books and do more research.
Some vendors DO add a layer of interfacing, but they tend to use a Pellon fusible interfacing like you can find at JoAnns. I have found this product to be inferior. First of all, it’s made out of petroleum and will hold in heat. Second, it doesn’t stay affixed in place to the fabric but will loosen and bunch up over a short period of time.
- Skirts that have ENOUGH fabric to properly cartridge pleat and drape.
My skirts are made with panels 55″ to 58″ wide. On average we use 4 panels, but this will depend on your fabric. Using four panels creates that beautiful volume you see in my gowns. You can tell when a seamstress has scrimped on fabric because the fabric doesn’t DRAPE but clings to the farthingale at the bottom. The fabric should NOT pull or look stretched.
I flat line ALL silks or faux silks so that they drape properly and have enough body to cartridge pleat. My cartridge pleats are no LESS than 3/8 inch in width. They are deep, copious, and neat in appearance. I reinforce them by hand tacking them together so that they won’t lose their shape over time.
- Grommets: I use a .000 size grommet and because our bodices are MORE than just two layers of fabric and a layer of Pellon fusible interfacing, our grommets DON’T pull away from the garment or fall out. I ALSO couch all the grommets to secure them in place.
I work with color: I use color theory based on your skin, hair, and eye color to choose colors that will be more flattering on you. I also use a color wheel for unique color combinations.
So, perhaps you cannot afford one of my highly embellished gowns with embroidered textiles and beading, but you CAN afford a basic gown that still offers quality construction.
Look, I’m not trying to corner the market. I have more work I can shake a stick at, but what drives me a little nuts is watching people spend their hard earned money on a sub-quality gown because they are convinced my work is out of their price range.
I die a little every time I get messages in my Etsy store wanting me to make them a hat or a headdress to wear with one of these bargain priced gowns. Inevitably, they send me pictures and I have to stuff a sock in my mouth to keep from saying, “WHYYYY???” I can’t tell them, “Hey, that gown you just bought from that particular vendor is gonna fall apart and you’ll be ordering another gown next season.” I have to keep my mouth shut, suck it up, and construct a headdresss or a hat wherein there will be a disparity in quality. In other words, there will be a difference in the quality of my work against the gown they’ll be wearing it with because most of these “bargain” gowns are painfully simplistic both in the style and in the construction. All I DARE to do is offer a politely worded, “When you’re gown shopping again, keep us in mind.” I did break my cardinal rule the other day when I was approached, once again, by a girl who was working with a vendor who I know falls in the category I just harped about and wanted to know my “thoughts.” Be warned. Never, ever ask me my thoughts or opinion unless you are ready for truth. I can’t help it! I have too much integrity to lie. The bad thing about being direct is that the written word doesn’t allow for my true intent and tone and I come off sounding like a b****. Sorry. :(
One thing that sets me a part as a professional designer is not just my experience, or my penchant for directness (which not everyone appreciates obviously), but having a very keen eye for detail, which is reflected in my craftsmanship. This ability has been honed over the course of 40 years and allows me to be able to edit work for quality with just a glance. That can be a double edge sword. On one hand, it drives my own efforts for quality, but can make me VERY unpopular if I point things out in others’ work. :(
I WISH there was enough of me to spread around and be able make ALL OF YOU a quality constructed gown, but time and age restricts how much we can crank out and maintain our quality standards. I also WISH I could teach other costumers the simple steps they can take to elevate their craftsmanship. But look, I’m pragmatic. What’s their motivation to do so if they stay busy cranking out hundreds of gowns for $400 a pop? Most aren’t interested in growing their skills, and believe me, they are NOT happy with me for pointing out the disparity between their work and mine. So, all I can do is educate consumers who want to develop an eye for quality and know the difference between a $400 gown and one that costs $900 or more.
Don’t let the price of gowns in my store scare you. I can work with many budget levels to create high quality, historically accurate gowns that will be durable, fit you like a glove, and last you many, MANY seasons as a reenactor. As the director of a reenactment group, and a cast member at faire since 2001, I have a practical understanding of the unique needs of reenactors and offer costumes that will stand up to the rigors of reenacting - - and believe me they do take a beating. So keep me in mind when you are gown shopping again!
