#kimono
Evening Coat
Lucile
1911
Purple silk velvet and gold lame opera coat with silk satin lining and integral gold lame waistcoat.
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Evening Coat
Liberty & Co.
1925
Orange silk rayon jacquard with yellow chrysanthemum pattern; cuffs, front opening and hem in gold rayon; collar of beaver.
Images and text taken from the book:
Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century, Kyoto Costume Institute, pgs 446-447.
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Opera Coat
Jean-Philippe Worth
House of Worth
1912
In 1912, the dolman coat once again became a fashionable form of outerwear, reviving the silhouette that was popular during the 1870s and 1880s. Worn almost exclusively for evening, the coat’s draped silhouette was often cut like a kimono. The stunning velvet of this example by the House of Worth features oversized woodland flowers including cattails and jack-in-the pulpits.
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Evening Coat
Paul Poiret
1924
Stunning cocoon evening coat of black georgette, hand beaded overall in lines of black beads switching to gray translucent beads with a geometric ragged edge formed at the color change. The coat has a velvet collar and edging at the aperture and velvet cord along the top of the shoulders extending down the full length of the arms. The dramatic dolman sleeves are emphasized by a careful placement of the beadwork pattern. The construction derives from draping techniques. The front falls from the shoulders and sweeps into a cutaway closure to attach at the lowered waist seam in the back. The coat has tremendous graphic impact with the beadwork shimmering and moving as the light hits the garment. Fully lined and faced with black silk.
Details of this coat published on full page (page 195) in the book, “Poiret: Paul Poiret 1879-1944”, by Yvonne Deslandres.
In addition, its draped construction with the minimal number of pattern pieces is typical of Poiret’s design techniques. The coat’s opulence and dramatic impact are hallmarks of Poiret’s style. Early in his career, he used the cocoon shape, which was inspired by traditional Japanese clothing.
This coat is a great example of the style which became known as Art Deco. The functional aspects of the design construction creates the geometric surface pattern of the beadwork and though minimal in form, the sculptural impact is dramatic and graphic in the round because of the graphics.
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Evening Coat
Weeks (attributed)
French
1910-1912
The contrast of black chiffon over aqua satin contributes to this evening coat’s visual appeal. The use of tassels and braid trim reflect an Asian influence and the ongoing interest in Orientalism at the time.
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Coat
Cristobal Balenciaga
House of Balenciaga
1927
Straight, mid-calf coat, based on the shape of a triangle. The large collar, crossover lapel, long sleeves and cuffs are decorated with ermine fur.
In this coat, made in San Sebastian, Balenciaga evoked the lines that define the Japanese kimono, one of the most influential garments in European fashion of the twenties. In perfect tune with the aesthetics of those years, the wide turndown collar and the sleeve cuffs were adorned with ermine fur.
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Arai is a 20-year-old Japanese college student we often see around the streets of Harajuku. She remakes traditional Japanese kimono and mixes them with handmade and modern elements. There are a number of people in the Harajuku scene who wear kimono, but Arai’s kimono remixing style is all her own. She’s also known for her bloody nose makeup, which we rarely see her without. This video shows Arai in Harajuku on two different days, both times wearing remake kimonos combined with various, handmade, vintage and resale accessories.
Dr. Sheila Cliffe is a Japan-based British-born woman who wears kimono daily. She fell in love with kimono on a trip to Japan in the early 1980s, moved to Japan in 1985, learned Japanese to study kimono, got a PHD in kimono at age 52, publishes kimono styling books, and works to help keep kimono a living fashion (not just something people see in museums). Her Full Story at Asahi Shinbun
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