#alberta ferretti
Alberta Ferretti x Wolford | Ajouré Net Thong Body + Ajouré Net Tights | model Kerolyn Soares | ph Rafael Pavarotti
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Alberta Ferretti x Wolford | Ajouré Net Body + Ajouré Net Tights | model Kerolyn Soares | ph Rafael Pavarotti
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I love this sweater, or let me put it another way I love the embroidery!
The look itself traces very natural features like how all the colours are some you’d find on the forest floor this time a year.
Designer: Alberta Ferretti
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Lili Reinhart wears the Alberta Ferretti lace insert ribbed dress (Sold Out) in her Instagram post — November 6, 2017
Alberta Ferretti, spring /summer 2022
Milan Fashion Week - Days 1 & 2
Milan is currently hosting Fashion Week, and as I’m living there I can tell you: the city breathes and lives fashion! Let’s see together these first two days of fashion week.
Day 1
Genny went sexy this time, with total see-through crossed by lines forming geometrical shapes. Beautiful the white and gold pieces.
Himalaya is definitely Stella Jean’s latest inspiration (photo 1), as we’ve seen in her menswear collection - and she actually translated some of the prints she used for menswear here for this new exciting collection. Useless to talk about print when it’s Stella Jean: that’s her signatur, we know that, we love that. Last season I wished she would change something in her design which was becoming repetitive; now I can say I’m happy with this collection. I loved the puff skirts in plaid, the warm pullovers and the beading made of pearls, little jewels, fringes… I even saw a more sophisticated attitude in her tartan trench coats.
Luisa Beccaria’s collection was about modern Cinderellas, and you could actually feel that romantic atmosphere in these clothes inspired by lady-like shapes and the most classic of gowns and feminine desires: a pale golden long evening gown with no decoration but just its simplicity; cute little caps; chiffon blouses, blingy cocktail dresses.
Gucci (photo 2) is still recognisable as Gucci, so we can breathe easy. I admit, after the beautiful menswear collection I saw in January I expected more from the new appointed creative director Alessandro Michele, but there were still many very valid elements. For example, it was slightly more daring than usual: some models were basically walking down the runway with completely sheer ensemble - without wearing bras, of course. It continued on the gender-crossing mission, and some looks could be definitely worn by either men or women. Yet, there was something missing, that je-ne-sais-quoi which still doesn’t convince me completely. But Gucci is on the right track.
Every designer draws inspiration from the remote past from time to time - Alberta Ferretti (photo 3) did it now. Renaissance was visible in these total white lace looks, or in the brocade-like coats and trousers lightened by golden threads against the black background. I particularly appreciated the white blouses, being the pieces in which the detailing is at the same time the most subtle and the most intricate and sophisticated. I also liked No. 21 collection (photo 4), and the only negative thing I can say about it is that I still need to find that fil rouge connecting the different styles in it. Overall, though, I was completely blown away by the pixeled landscape print and the dozens of ruffles architecturally placed around the body covered by the white coats and jackets looking like white paper.
Fausto Puglisi’s style doesn’t suit me personally, but I recognise the strength in it, a sort of kitsch attitude combining very distant things together, gold and zebra print, elegant shapes and urban style. Francesco Scognamiglio’s show (photo 5) started with extremely simple black silk dresses, and I was already in love. It takes guts to give start to a runway show with extreme simplicity. It kept that way throughout the collection, with some highs of sexiness and sweetness some times, romantic shapes and ethereal fabrics gently and swiftly following the body lines.
The principle ‘sport, sport, sport’ is taking Brunello Cucinelli as well, so much that he decided to match activewear shapes with hyper soft furs for this new collection. And I’m sure this can make a trend.
Day 2
Max Mara proposed effortless looks with effortless shades in effortless shapes: coats lost all the decorations, even buttons were invisible; shades veered towards sand, beige, cream; beautiful the quilted sweater coordinated with the quilted silk coat. Even more basic was the direction taken by Les Copains, yet there was a sober atmosphere which gave space to the very small details: jewel brooches, the soft quality of materials, colours declined in different very similar shades building a tonal architecture which gave depth and structure to the clothes.
Fendi (photo 6) went slightly alternative. Younger and fresher than usual, it started with loud white ensembles in candid leather which lit up the runway completely. It went on with very innovative elements: the duvet of the coats used to create total duvet dresses, maxi-coats with strong shoulders, oversize furs wrapping the body.
It’s official: I like Roberto Cavalli’s secondary line, Just Cavalli (photo 7). It’s becoming much more polished, elegant and animal prints are disappearing or are translated into something more graphic and less predictable. It was Cavalli anyway: the fur, the feathers, the edgy attitude of his woman, everything was there as proof that you can keep your style without necessarily going tacky. The one thing I loved about this collection was the extreme variety of the offer: there were little dresses in total black, maxi furs, studded jackets, mini skirts…
Miuccia abandoned the black she embraced during last season and for menswear, and she went back to her first love for this Prada (photo 8) collection: colour. And crazy prints as well. Everything looked like being made of neoprene, but then I read Tim Blanks’s review and saw that he missed the 'joke’ as well: it wasn’t neoprene, but double-faced jersey. Magician Miuccia pulled another rabbit from her magic hat. And so she went on, with irony, mimicking tartan and tweed prints, mixing colours, showing that something new in fashion can still be created.
Cristiano Burani presented a cool collection with an edgy and activewear twist: bomber jackets in fur, coloured stripes everywhere, black leather and glossy plastic for mini-skirts. Daniela Gregis knows how to be a conceptual designer without giving up on wearability. Research on cut and colour was central: peek-a-boo elements opening a window on brushes of colours looking like painted on a canvas. Black serving as the contrast against which opposing the whole rainbow.
Byblos Milan opened its show with shocking pink and colour blocking, which could trick you into thinking you were going to assist to an explosion of tones. That was not the case: colours were used to lit up the main shade, which was definitely black. Black made electric by blue, black made bright by the match with the most classic white, black being sexy as pattern on sheer fabric against the naked skin. And then Moschino came. The first looks really made me hope that Jeremy Scott was over the references to pop culture - which I like, but you know, you have to change if you want to stay hot in fashion. Then it started with another of his obsessions: cartoons. This time it was Looney Tunes, but the formula was the same: blingy accessories, shapes and types borrowed from football, basketball, sport in general. But it wasn’t even cartoons: it suddenly went to what we can easily call the new 'mascotte’ of Moschino, the teddy bear. And then graffiti. It was definitely too much - but is it a praise or a critique for a designer whose motto can easily be summed up by 'more is more’? Anyway, my favourite part was definitely this last one: I didn’t even think Scott could be able to conceive such elegant traditional shapes. Reinvented through the colourful graffiti though. Yes, I would have definitely loved to see some more of that, it would have made Moschino collection one of the best so far.
I was in love with Ports 1961 (photo 9) as soon as I saw the first photo of this new collection. After that, I couldn’t get over it anymore. Beautiful the grey ensemble with the maxi-knot in front, being the detail which turned around a whole look. And then it went on with ethereal fabrics, looking like made of nothing, the beautiful draping of some gowns - bravely paired with slippers - decoration to the minimum: even the simplest thing can look great.
Marcelo Burlon County of Milan closes my first review for MFW, and I can say alternative futuristic fashion lovers have found their guide in Milan. Everything was over-the-top without being bad taste: graphic prints, silver fabric looking like space suits, exaggerated proportions.
xxx
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Oscar 2015 Red Carpet Looks
The Academy Awards held in Los Angeles two days ago are a great chance to take a break from the fashion weeks of this month - without missing the opportunity of talking about fashion anyway.
A miracle happened, or maybe I missed some looks, but I admit that this time there were no real ‘Worst Dressed’. Too bad, as you all know I love talking about the most embarrassing looks chosen by the stars. But this is it, and let’s start from our winners.
BEST DRESSED
Lupita Nyong'o in Calvin Klein Collection: Lupita always knows how to shine on the red carpet, and after her Oscar last year for '12 Years a Slave’ she definitely set herself as the new celebrity to take a look at on the red carpet. This time she opted for a champagne pearl-emroidered Calvin Klein Collection in which the balance between simplicity of lines and richness of material was the strength of the whole look. She always chooses colours which enhance her skin-tone and she’s got so much class I’m sure she would be stunning in every dress. ★★★★★
Marion Cotillard in Dior Haute Couture: I understand this is one of those dresses you either love or completely hate. It happens that I love it. I’m not sure if I would be of the same opinion if the dress was worn by another person, but it definitely suits Marion’s fresh and hip personality, with a slight bon-ton vibe and a delicate print which adds a little bit of personality to the gown. Very smart choice. ★★★★
Rosamund Pike in Givenchy Haute Couture: I don’t always appreciate red on the red carpet - I mean, wouldn’t be better to choose a colour which contrasts with the red carpet to pop out of the crowd? This dress, though, was just amazingly elegant. The colour, which is a sort of lipstick red, is very strong but at the same time the lace, the soft shapes of the strapless neckline, the slit of the skirt, make it sexier and Rosamund adds a little ethereal twist. ★★★★
WORST DRESSED
Jessica Chastain in Givenchy: my heart aches for putting this dress among the worst, but I had to choose three of them, and as I told you, it was really difficult this time. The gown in itself is a really nice one, you know I love simple shapes, and that’s definitely the case. I don’t quite like the double strap though, it made the overall look very heavy in some way. †
Laura Dern in Alberta Ferretti: it’s not the first time a gown by Alberta Ferretti goes in my personal bottom three of the worst dressed. Again like with Jessica Chastain, the dress in itself was not bad, but in general this metallic fabric doesn’t convince me completely and makes me think of an armour for the Crusades in the Middle Ages. ††
Julianne Moore in Chanel: Julianne is an amazing actress and I’m sure she greatly deserved her Oscar. This dress, though - even if designed by Lagerfeld himself - was the only one I was sure of putting in the worst dressed list. I mean, I can’t even understand why everyone is crazy about it on the Internet - guess because it’s a Chanel gown and people automatically think 'OMG it’s Chanel SO IT’S AMAZING’. No folks, it doesn’t work this way. I hated those decorations on the neckline, on the waistline and at the bottom of the skirt, they looked like burnt fried eggs. Not the worst I’ve seen on red carpets, but definitely the worst for THIS red carpet. If you like it, then, it’s a matter of taste. †††
xxx
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Alberta Ferretti 2021
MyTOP 10fromMFW Fall 2020 ready-to-wear
1: Moncler 8 Richard Quinn
2: Fendi
3: Gucci
4: Marni
5: Versace
6: Sportmax
7: Gabriele Colangelo
8: Alberta Ferretti
9: Moschino
10: Etro
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ALBERTA FERRETTI BY JACQUELINE OSTERMANN
ALBERTA FERRETTI at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2022
if you want to support this blog consider donating to: ko-fi.com/fashionrunways
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ALBERTA FERRETTI at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2022
if you want to support this blog consider donating to: ko-fi.com/fashionrunways
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ALBERTA FERRETTI at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2022
if you want to support this blog consider donating to: ko-fi.com/fashionrunways
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ALBERTA FERRETTI at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2022
if you want to support this blog consider donating to: ko-fi.com/fashionrunways
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ALBERTA FERRETTI at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2022
if you want to support this blog consider donating to: ko-fi.com/fashionrunways
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ALBERTA FERRETTI at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2022
if you want to support this blog consider donating to: ko-fi.com/fashionrunways
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ALBERTA FERRETTI at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2022
if you want to support this blog consider donating to: ko-fi.com/fashionrunways
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ALBERTA FERRETTI at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2022
if you want to support this blog consider donating to: ko-fi.com/fashionrunways
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ALBERTA FERRETTI at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2022
if you want to support this blog consider donating to: ko-fi.com/fashionrunways
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