#jarea2014

Shopping in Insadong and Myeongdong.

Today we decided to have a more relaxing day after the tensions of our previous days DMZ tour. We pretty much just walked along the street in Insadong and Myeongdong, buying things that took our fancy.

My favourite purchases were made at the “KPop Mall” in Myeongdong. My best friend and I LOVE Super Junior so I took the opportunity to buy her some gifts. Let’s just say, I hope she has space for heaps of posters!

In Front of Them All.

So our DMZ/JSA tour with Koridoor today was fantastic. Intimidating at times but truly informative. I really think you’re missing out on learning a little more about what makes contemporary Koreans tick if you don’t go on a DMZ tour.

They took us into the JSA (Joint Security Area), with some help from some US Army soldiers. We got to see into North Korea right across the MDL (Military Demarcation Line) and even saw a North Korean guard darting behind pillars, watching us from a distance. We even (technically) stood in the DPRK for a few minutes.

We saw North Korea’s “Propaganda Village” from a distance, drove past the famous “Bridge of No Return”, visited Dorasan Station (the “last train station in South Korea and the first station toward North Korea”), visited Dora Observatory and went into the Third Infiltration Tunnel.

It was a very surreal experience. I don’t know about anyone else but it certainly helped me appreciated and understand Koreans, Korean attitude/identity and Korean history since the Korean War just that little bit more.

And it put all of those episodes of M*A*S*H into perspective.

Gwanghwamun Square.

Today we took a wander around the area near Gwanghwamun Square/Plaza. It turned out to be a pretty enjoyable day that involved us getting dressed up in traditional Korea clothing (for free) just outside the station and walking around Gyeongbukgung Palace. The National Folk Museum of Korea also had a free entry day which was a nice surprise!

We also marvelled at the statues of King Sejong the Great and Admiral Yi Sun-Shin that dominate the plaza. The Plaza is a great place to start exploring the city as it’s right outside Gwanghwamun Station, making it easy to get to.

You’ve Got Soul, Seoul.

We made our way from Kansai Airport to Incheon International Airport without many issues. Getting to our guesthouse in Hongdae didn’t take much effort, either.

Seoul is pretty cool so far. So many places to eat! I’m just a little anxious at the moment, trying to get out of the habit of speaking limited Japanese (which we’ve done for 3 weeks) and trying to be polite without knowing much Korean. I’m sure we’ll be fine.

I’m also anxious about reentering Australia. I suppose I should just wait to worry about that next week.

Sky High.

Today we took a trip to Umeda Sky Building. I got horribly lost along the way, discovering the massive labyrinth of an underground shopping mall called Whity.

The observatory at the Sky Building itself is awesome. Great views of the city and some great architecture. Definitely a must visit if you like tall buildings, interesting architecture and city views.

Fun is Universal.

Today we spent most of the day at Universal Studios Japan. We didn’t stay until dark like we did at Disney Sea. Why? There just wasn’t any need to.

We did the smart thing. We decided to spend an extra ¥3200 or so for a four ticket Express Pass. No waiting in line for longer than 20 minutes to get on to popular rides. Money well spent!

We went on JAWS, Jurassic Park, Spider-Man and saw the Backdraft attraction. We finished the day watching other people splashdown at the Jurassic Park ride and had a go on the Hello Kitty Cupcake Dream teacup style ride.

Why Did it Take You So Long, Deer?

I finally got to go to Nara Park! There really isn’t much to say other than we explored the park for the day, fed the deer and visited a shrine. The deer food was ¥150 and the sakura were in bloom.

If you love animals, go.
If you love traditional Japan, go.

Seriously. Why did I not go to Nara last time?!

Rainy Days are Here Again.

It rained most of the day today. We decided it would be a good day to sleep in. We didn’t leave the hotel until 2pm and, even then, we just walked around Dotonbori, Shinsaibashi and elsewhere, buying food and eating it.

Gyoza.
Cheese tart.
Grape marshmallows.
Ramen.

Day well spent, I think.

Under the Sea.

Today we went to Osaka Aquarium. We had an amazing day, despite the massive crowds.

They’ve got everything from salamanders to seals, dolphins to rays. They’ve also got a pretty cool whale shark! They seem to have put a lot of effort into making their tanks a comfortable place for these guys to live, something I can’t say for somewhere like Himeji City Zoo.

Let’s Walk.

Today we had a rather casual day. Got up late after not getting much sleep last night (thanks to our rowdy neighbours), walked to Den Den Town and then took the train to Umeda.

Den Den Town was pretty fun. If I had more bag space I would have bought plenty of Power Rangers figurines and a model train for my Dad. Still disappointed by the lack of massive/crazy iPhone cases in Japan this time around.

We also had a look around Osaka Station City before heading to the Pokemon Centre. Still couldn’t find a Darkrai figure for my brother. Oh well. Them’s the breaks, I suppose.

What we do tomorrow depends on the weather. I’d like to get to Nara and see Osaka Castle some time this week, as well as hitting up Universal Studios and the aquarium.

Onward to Osaka.

Today we travelled from Kyoto to Osaka. It was sad to have to leave our cupboard behind but our new digs in Osaka are pretty roomy. We’re also right near Dotombori giving us a massive range of options for dinner at night. It may have taken us three or four trains to get here but at least we’re in a good spot. Hopefully it won’t be too hard to get to the airport in a weeks time.

We had a good look around during the day and night, had some fantastic ramen for dinner and even bought some bits and pieces. Hopefully my stay in Osaka will be more enjoyable this time around.

Ah, Arashiyama!

Today we visited one of my favourite places, Arashiyama. I’d been there on my last trip to Japan but didn’t get around to the whole park. This time I wanted to see more.

We took a wander through the bamboo grove, visited Tenryu-ji Temple and, of course, fed the monkeys at Iwatayama Monkey Park. It was a good day for it, with relatively clear skies and no rain. Only later in the day did the sky turn grey.

If you love animals, temples, walking and the great outdoors, you simply can’t go passed Arashiyama. You can even hire a bicycle to get around!

An Important History Lesson.

We took a day trip to Hiroshima today to visit the Atomic Bomb Dome, Peace Park and museum.

There are very few words that can convey accurately just how one feels when walking about the place. I don’t think I’ve ever felt more moved in my life. I made particular point of reading all of the plaques featured next to artefacts in the museum, telling the stories of their (more often than not) child owners.

I highly recommend a visit, if only in the hope that more people walk away from the experience with the realisation that nuclear weapons are horrific things that no one should ever be allowed to possess.

Humans can be truly horrible creatures.

The Girls in the White Castle.

Well, not quite. Himeji Castle is still undergoing some serious restoration work. The main tower is still covered in scaffolding, and will be until late March next year, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t an enjoyable place to visit.

Our day in Himeji was amazing. We had a fantastic tour guide for a great 1 and a half hour long English speaking tour. We got to see inside some of he buildings, hear some of the history of the place and learn a little about the work that is being done on the main tower.

We also visited the neighbouring Kokoen Gardens next door. They’re very beautiful, Japanese gardens that are wonderful and peaceful, no matter the time of year. Entry to both the castle and the gardens can be combined in one ticket, making it convenient for day trippers.

One word of warning, though. Don’t go to the Himeji City Zoo. It has to be one of the most utterly depressing places I have ever had the misfortune to visit. It’s quite old, run down and features some rather sad looking animals in some pretty small cages and enclosures. I sincerely hope someone gives them a massive funding injection to completely revamp the zoo.

The Fox and The Tower.

Today we hung out at the marvellous Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto. I had never had the opportunity to visit it before and I was not disappointed.

If it’s a clear day, and you have plenty of time to spare, I highly recommend spending as much time as you can simply walking around the complex. If you are particularly adventurous, have a go at waking through all of the torii gates to reach to summit of Mount Inari!

After our trip out to the shrine we decided to have a look at Kyoto Tower. It’s been around for 50 years and offers some pretty awesome views of Kyoto. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Osaka.

We didn’t make it to the two temples near the tower. Kyoto is just too full of interesting places to see. We may just have to leave it for another day.

Terrible Weather for a Walk.

It really was the worst possible weather to be out and about in. It was rainy, windy and cold. There were very few parts of the day where it was sunny and not raining.

Nevertheless, we had a walk around Gion and had a look at Yasaka Shrine. We got some decent photos and bought some gifts but, other than that, most of the day was taken up with scurrying from door to door, trying to stay out of the rain.

And, to add insult to injury, it tried to snow on our way back to our hostel.

For all of 30 seconds.

Have Rail Pass. Will Travel.

Today we left our comfy room and futons behind at Shin-Okubo Sekitei and headed to Shinagawa station for the Shinkansen to Kyoto. Normally it would have been a great train trip with awesome views of Mt Fuji as we sped by.

This time, however, the weather gods were not on our side.

It rained all day so most of the landscape was covered in low-lying cloud. Ah well. At least we’re here.

I’m back in my favourite city. Back where tradition and modernity meet.

I’m back in Kyoto.

Laundry Day.

Today was our first “free day”, a day with nothing planned. What did we end up doing?

Sleeping.
Laundry.
Shopping.

Walking around Shibuya at night was nice if somewhat cold. Still, we managed to make another trip to UNIQLO, which makes it worthwhile.

We’re off to Kyoto tomorrow. Although I love Tokyo my heart has always been in Kyoto. It’ll be hard to leave Shin-Okubo. This place has been fantastic. If you’re ever looking for a place to stay I highly recommend Shin-Okubo Sekitei. Great staff and perfect location, it just doesn’t get any better.

Today was a rather lazy day.

We woke up relatively late, after being out at Disney Sea the previous day, and didn’t leave until midday. We decided today might be a more casual day.

First stop was Ikebukuro for the Tokyu Hands building and the Nekobukuro cat playground. I’d been to Nekobukuro last time I was here and just loved hanging out with the cats. This time around a befriended a very majestic black and white long-haired cat. I wish I could take him home with me!

After trying (unsuccessfully) to find the new Sunshine 60 UNIQLO store, we had lunch in the 8th floor of the Lumine department store and caught a train to Ueno.

By the time we got to Ueno it was around 4 or 5 o'clock, perfect to have a wander through the Ameyokocho market. If you want to buy socks, shoes, shirts or even fresh seafood and nuts or beans, then this is the place to come to.

Just keep an eye out for the octopus tentacles.

The Happiest Place in Tokyo.

Today was a big day for me. I visited my first Disney theme park. I’ve only ever been to Japan and, the last time I was here, the park was closed following the earthquake and tsunami in 2011. Needless to say, I was pretty excited.

I’m not typically one for theme parks. In particular, I don’t like roller coasters. The only types of rides I tend to enjoy are those that involve tunnels or water. Luckily, Tokyo Disney Sea is filled with both.

We started out rather late in the morning, taking a Yamanote line train to Shinjuku, a Chuo rapid to Tokyo and then a Keiyo line train to Maihama. We arrived near the middle of the day and the place was packed.

Another reason why I don’t do theme parks? Queues. There’s very little value in spending so much money on a ticket and then spending most of your time waiting in a queue. Luckily there were two big rides that I simply had to try out; Journey to the Center of the Earth and Indiana Jones and the Temple of the Crystal Skull. Both involved waits of upwards of two hours but were totally worth it.

Journey to the Center of the Earth was great. Cool animatronics, awesome lighting as well as some great twisty, pitch-black sections and an fantastic drop made the ride for me. Pity it was over so quickly!

Indiana Jones was similar but just as fun. If you’re a fan of the movies it is definitely a must-try ride.

To top off our day we grabbed some Minnie Mouse merchandise (I needed a poncho because it was cold and I just had to have a purple bow headband) before watching the water/light show.

Definitely a fun day.

Such walking. Many steps. So tiring. Wow.

Today was a very long day full of walking and short train trips. We visited a few different places on the opposite side of the city which made for an interesting day.

We started off by heading to Kanda and taking the Ginza Subway to Asakusa. This made for a good opportunity to grab a Suica card to make getting around on non-JR trains that much easier (Suica and Pasmo are compatible now).

Asakusa, of course, is the home of Senso-ji, the massive temple complex. Kaminarimon Gate, Nakamise shopping street and, of course, Senso-ji itself, are a sight to behold on a busy Sunday and, boy, was it busy! At times we felt like fish swimming upstream.

We walked up Nakamise street, eating taiyaki and purchasing small gifts for family back home. We headed towards the main prayer hall, taking photos along the way (including one photo with a couple of rather drunk Japanese guys) and got our fortune.

Walking around the grounds also allowed us to grab some of the food on offer. If you’ve never been to a temple or shrine on a busy day, do it, as some of the food stalls see incredibly cheap and awesome tasting food that goes down really well when you’re hungry.

After we’d had our fill of food, we hopped back on the train and headed to Hamamatsucho and to the Pokemon Centre. I didn’t spend nearly as much money as I did last time but Tal spent more than enough to make up for it. It’s definitely the place to go if you’re a Pokemon fan.

Our last stop of the day was Akihabara Electric Town. This is one of the coolest parts of the city to simply wander around in, with lots of shops offering everything from cameras, SD cards, games and toys to cables, cases, bags and cosplay outfits. I also spotted a guy walking his pet duck…

We decided to finish off our day with some great food at a small place near our accommodation. We’re going to need a good sleep tonight. We’re off to somewhere special tomorrow!

Today was Ghibli Museum Day!

Words cannot describe how much I love Studio Ghibli films. They’re some of my favourite animated films of all time. Porco Rosso, My Neighbour Totoro, Kiki’s Delivery Service…all share a special place in my heart.

I visited the Ghibli Museum in Mitaka the last time I was in Japan three years ago. There’s a certain child-like happiness that seems to overcome you as soon as you see the Totoro standing in the box office out the front.

The building itself is wonderful. So many nice little touches, like dust sprites and such in the glass of light fittings, famous Ghibli characters in the stained glass windows and the giant Catbus (for kids only, unfortunately). It’s such a pity that you can’t take photos inside. The rooms full of the desks of animators, film cells, storyboards and exhibits on the principles of animation more than make up for it.

After having our photo taken on the roof and eating at the wonderful Straw Hat Cafe, we hopped back on the train and went to Nakano Broadway, just across the road from JR Nakano station. This is another one of my favourite shopping spots in Tokyo made even better by the fact that there is now a UNIQLO there! I grabbed a new black hoodie and grey cardigan (to replace the ones I bought last time I was here) before we headed into the actual Broadway building to have a look around.

So many otaku store, so much manga and so much gashopon! I had forgotten how much of a gold mine this place could be. If you’re looking for a cosplay outfit or figurine then this is definitely the place to go. Mandarake takes up most of the shops, including one massive store on the top floor that sells some very cool (and very expensive) vintage toys, but there are some other really awesome smaller stores there too!

Lots of walking done today.

We started relatively late, which was nice. We had to be out of our room by 11 so that our air conditioner could be fixed. The staff here are so lovely and apologetic about it we just wanted to help them.

After stopping off at the local 7/11 for sandwiches and water, we headed from Shin-Okubo station to Shinjuku. A whole two minute train ride. There we grabbed our JR Passes and scoffed some of our food (I hate eating on the street but I was about to pass out).

From there we headed off to Harajuku station and met up with a friend of ours from work, Rhys. We took the short walk to Meiji Shrine, had a look around, snapped some photos and then headed back to the station for a train to Shibuya.

At Shibuya we checked out the famous Hachiko Wall and statue of Hachiko and braved the crossing. I had forgotten how much I liked the area around Shibuya station. So bright, colourful, and full of people.

We went to the Shibuya Apple Store, bought some things, had a group photo and then parted ways. Our friend was due on a flight to LA and wanted to get to the airport nice and early.

I thought it might be nice to walk to Harajuku again, just like old times, so we continued up that street after eating at the cafeteria in the LoFT& department store. Once we got to Harajuku again we headed straight for Takeshita dori, my favourite part of the city.

So many shops selling so many awesome clothes, shoes, socks and jewellery! We headed to the big Daiso there for some supplies, I grabbed some kawaii earrings at Paris Kid’s and, once we’d walked the length of the street, we headed back towards the station.

After a small detour, I eventually found our way back to the famous Kiddy Land store in Omotesando. It’s funny when you take a look at the people that we inside that store; most of them were adults! I decided to get some cute origami crane earrings for my mum and an umbrella, which will probably come in handy at some point.

We headed back to Shin-Okubo, sore from the walking but happier for it. After a nap we went back to the 7/11 for some food (we were too tired to really go out) and retired to our room for an evening of Japanese TV (Old Bird was on).

That was one of the worst plane trips I’ve ever made.

Staying at the Rydges near the airport was a great idea. We ended up being ridiculously early for our flight after checking in, going through security and going through customs in record time.

The flight to Seoul was decent enough. Plenty of food and good service on Korean Air.

We also made our connecting flight without a hitch.

The issue? Horrible weather in Tokyo made for the worst turbulence I have ever experienced. It was so bad I thought I was going to be sick and couldn’t wait to be off the plane. I sincerely hope that we don’t have that kind of problem on the way home.

We ended up landing late because of the turbulence and were extremely lucky to make it out of the airport relatively quickly. We managed to race for a Skyliner, change at Nippori to a JR Yamanote train and didn’t get lost in Shin-Okubo.

We’ve both been pretty sick overnight. Tal is at least getting some sleep whereas I’m finding it very hard to do so. We’ve both been up several times during the night because we’ve been sick.

I really hope things improve tomorrow. Considering going out really early to go to the 7/11 down the street to get some things to eat for the both of us. Hopefully a bite to eat and a shower before a leisurely walk around Tokyo will make us feel better.

We’re off! Follow the adventure!

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